I did not reorder from that particular store, but I'll have to from another now...

Note that with the radio, the digital display always works, it's just the sound (same with CDs). So, an amplifier module would make sense to me.

The seat belt and coolant lights only come on for 2 or 3 seconds at a time, not enough time for me to figure out a pattern... But I'll keep trying.

I'll look for the grounding wires for both issues.

http://www...528003a892

I found someone who had the exact same problems (plus a few more) with the steering/seat belt light/etc.: http://www...opic=31979

It sounds like the TR sensor, aka the neutral safety switch: http://www...528003ad5a . I'll check it out and play with it before I replace it tomorrow.

Testimonials can be useful when, "applied in a conscientiously approved manner, with appropriate thought given to how the conclusions were reached by the testimonialist."
Was the Ford Article No. 98-23-12 (ref. my post on 09/24/2008) supportive of the testimony, or vice versa?

Given that all things are not equal, supportive.

I admit, I let your post slip by without giving it the consideration it deserves. I apologize.

So, there is moisture in the TR sensor connector itself. Along with liquidy blue stuff (from corrosion?) around the pin holes. The entire sensor is covered in greasy grime.

This would explain why sometimes if I drive through a big puddle, the steering wheel would tighten up. It has done this for years (so I've avoided puddles).

Good find there Matthew.

Yes, I'm glad you found something pretty definitive in your troubleshooting. Maybe, now, we can get somewhere!
If you look at the PCM wiring diagram, you'll see that there are seven (7) wires (circuits) that go between the transmission and the PCM.
From the alldata > Vehicle Level > Diagrams > Connector Views > Engine Control Module< , is the PCM connector chart which shows all the pin numbers, circuits, wire colors, and describes the circuit functions.
For example: pin 1 is circuit 315, wire color is pink/orange, and it's circuit function is, "Shift Solenoid #2".
Pin 27 Shift Solenoid #1 Control circuit
Pin 29 Transmission Control Switch circuit
Pin 37 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Input circuit
Pin 53 Shift Solenoid #3
Pin 54 Torque Control Clutch Solenoid
So, you can see that the inputs from the transmission, and the outputs to the transmission can have quite a number of affects. The alldata has troubleshooting charts for the transmission circuits, also.

The problems with the first replacement PCM may have been caused by the Transmission Range Sensor. We won't know, now. Too bad.

Changing the Transmission Range (TR) Sensor may cure everything except the oxygen sensor heaters. Dream of success!

I agree,I think it will fix everything but the O2 problems as well.

Here's a big update, where do I start...

I ordered and received a new TR sensor for Autozone. Brought it home, took out the old one, and immediately realized that they sold me THE WRONG ONE. The one they gave me was a 10 pin, the one in my car is an 11 pin. My original TR sensor is also significantly larger than the new one. I called them back, and after explaining everything, they double checked and confirmed that they did not have that part. They said that the 97 model did have an 11 pin though... I said thanks but no thanks to that... (never mind, bad joke). I called around other places, and either no one had it, or they could not confirm for me if what they could order was 11 pin or not. I tried calling the Ford place all day long and had to leave a message. At this point, I will go ahead and order one through Ford after I am convinced that they know exactly what I need. Unless it costs hundreds of dollars...

Here is what I think the underlying problem is that would explain this, and possibly the PCM I bought and did not work: For some dang reason, few auto-parts places know what a 1998 Ford Taurus SE is. Emphasis on the SE. What I mean is, the "SE" model is not in their databases. Damned if I know why. So, they assume it is the same as the LX because the LX apparently has the same engine and what-not. So, I think that I have a rare vintage of La Taurus that is throwing them off. That mistake will NOT be made again.

My old TR sensor has a lot of moisture in it. I'm too afraid to take it apart to clean it out for fear of braking something because this is my only car. But what I DID do is take sandpaper to the dirty pins and shined them up nicely. I also took a hair dryer to the connector's pin holes to dry it out. I drove it a good deal after that and the car did just fine, no problems. In fact, there were only a few shifting problems at first, but that IS typical when I disconnect the battery for a while. Though, from my reading, I did not think that this would affect it staying in gear. Hell, I could remember wrong.

EDIT: And, AND, I was specifically told on the phone that ALL of the taurus models for that year took the same size TR sensor... Shows what they know.

I highly, highly doubt that the TR sensor was affecting the new PCM. Only because with the new PCM the car would not start at all, it would just keep trying to turn over. One good thing is that I have NEVER had any problems starting the car (in park or neutral).

I can't afford to order a new PCM through Ford ($500!), so I will try again at another place that I am convinced understands what I need. Worst that will happen is I get my money back.

I also very much doubt the replacement PCM was effected by the TR sensor.

None of my information sources show an SE sub-model. Few would know the difference between an LX and an SE. ADDED: Learned from Parts that the catalogs don't show SE; that SE ("Special Edition*") just denotes a trim package. I understand that your car has a SE badge on it; but, other than the trim package, it's still an LX.
Here is a parts listing for the neutral safety switch (which Ford calls a digital transmission range sensor......six of one, a half dozen of 'nuthern). Some have 11 pins. http://www...01&PTSet=A
Dirty grease/oil can cause a short with some resistance; so, it's not a "dead short"; but, a short none the less.
Use a non-oily spray cleaner (brake cleaner, contact cleaner, ether) to thoroughly soak the transmission range selector (neutral safety switch) and its electrical connector(s). then, spray'em again. Let dry a few minuets. Give'er a run. Results?

You know what the part looks like. Call the parts store. Go and look at what they have. You should find a match.
The Ford Article on the TR Sensor has some voltage checks to run with a (Ford only?) scan tool. This alternate way may work: Backprobe PCM 91 and PCM 64. First try it with the red probe of your multimeter on PCM 64, and black on PCM 91. If that doesn't work, put the black probe to ground.
Desired test results: with ignition ON (RUN) transmission in PARK, 0.0 volts dc. With the shift lever Reverse, Neutral, Overdrive 1.3 to 1.8 volts dc.
If all the positions are 0.0 volts; then, that shows a short to ground. If 9 to 14 volts, there's an open circuit. If 1.8 to 5 volts, it's caused by an open circuit or a bad resistor in the DTR Sensor.
While checking the Park position voltage (desired: 0.0 v.) wriggle the wires to the TR Sensor. If voltages come and go, wriggle the wires down to the problem area.

I'm still here... I went on vacation and thought I'd have internet access. I was wrong.

If I had another car, I would definitely brave taking apart the neutral safety switch and clean it because I'm quite sure that nothing is broken, just wet and grimy. BUT, I don't. I want to replace it because water just seeps out of it and even after cleaning the pins, a day or two later they are back to being corroded. I called Ford, gave them my VIN #s and the number off of the sensor itself. Went to pick it up, and knew right away it was the wrong one. So, I took the old one out and brought it into the store. They placed another order and I should get it today.

When I clean the pins on the switch/sensor, the car drives just fine. So I'll be able to finally relax once I get that part. Then I'll concentrate on the PCM again.

That's really good news about the models hellokit. I guess it would also make sense because the car has leather, a 6 disk changer, and power everything. There's actually a SES model as well, though I have no idea what else they could have included... maybe a sunroof? Anyways, then that makes me feel better about ordering a refurb PCM again.

You guys have been great, thanks again for having the interest and patience required to stick with me through all of this, I have learned a lot.

SO,

Yesterday I finally got the correct Neutral Safety Switch. Now it runs like a brand new car.

Today I will once again order a PCM, but from a different place this time.

That is good news Matthew. You are finally making progess on this 'sordid tale'.

Why don't you scan the PCM (engine Computer), first. Make sure it still has DTCs for the oxygen sensor heaters. It's not impossible for that to have changed, too.

It IS good news!

I scanned this morning. Which means the new switch has had about 20 miles on it now. P0135, P0155 and P0455 (still with that large leak!) popped up.

I can always clear the codes. I guess I will next time I'm in it.

Yes, you need to "clean the slate" with the new transmission selector sensor installed. The codes in there now are probably from the time before the change. Erase'em and see.

I did that yesterday. Since then codes have come back: P0135 & P0155 are "stored" and P0455 is "pending."

That P0455 worries me. Is it probable that my bad PCM is causing that code as well? I hope so, because I've replaced all of my little hoses and my big hoses all look good. Gas cap is fine. I even put an extra hose clamp at the PCV because it was not sitting snug in the larger hose.

I was doing me some light readin' and I came across this little bit of information: "The EVAP Running Loss System Monitor will not initiate until the Heated Oxygen Sensor Monitor has completed." And, ditto for a bad MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor. On your scan tool screen, are the icons EVA and HTR still flashing? If yes, the HTR (oxygen sensor heaters) aren't passing the readiness test performed by the PCM (engine computer). The EVA can't get ready until the HTR gets ready. Of course, we think that the PCM (engine computer) is defected and can't operate the front oxygen sensor heaters.
In short, the EVAP (P0455) should be cured when the oxygen sensor heaters start working.