There's a lot to my sordid tale so I'm going to try to be as brief and concise as possible:
Car Info:
1998 Ford Taurus station wagon V6 3.0L DOHC
"Service Engine Soon" light is ON. 140k miles. New spark plugs and air filter. Oil changed last week. Engine tune up and transmission flush about 3 months ago.
P1131 - P11XX Manufacturer Controlled Fuel and Air Metering (aka mass air flow sensor)
The Service Engine Soon light is ON. I live in NC. While visiting parents in VA last weekend went to their trusted mechanic. He replaced the two O2 sensors. I drove the car a few miles and the SEL came back on. Sent it back to mechanic. Mechanic had hell of a time finding the problem, some kind of "tree" test (this is a monroe muffler) and it pointed towards the O2 sensors again. He replaced all 5 O2 sensors including the first two he replaced (for free, he's a great guy). In the end I think he forgot to do anything about the mass air flow sensor. At that point I had to go home to NC but on the way the SEL came back on. Took it to an inspection place and they kindly read the codes, all three original codes were still present. Guy looked under the hood and showed me that one of the air lines is ruptured. Went to Advanced Auto Parts and got new hose, attached it, disconnected battery for a bit. Next day after about 20 miles the SEL came back on.
All the while I've been told that the engine is running rich and that can screw up sensors. My question is this, can 150+ miles of driving with new O2 sensors and a ruptured air line (don't' know what the line is called, it is not very big or long) ruin my new O2 sensors? Frustrated, I bought all new sensors including the mass air flow one to try to resolve this on my own but I don't want to ruin these sensors as well. Also I've read varying opinions on how to clean them (petrol, blow torch, etc.).
I assume you are talking about the I/M readiness tests that the scan tool reports on? I think so. I'll have to check it later. I'm pretty sure that the last few times I checked it after driving for a few days, that nearly everything was listed as "OK".
Yes, the I/M Readiness tests. Please be more specific than, "...pretty sure.." and, "...nearly everything...". I nearly can't give no specific advice if'n I don know 'zactly what I'm talking about. We be too near the end-game, now, to fumble the pum'kin.
MIL Status ON
Misfire Monitor OK
Fuel System Mon OK
Comp. Component OK
Catalyst Mon INC
Htd Catalyst N/A
Evap System Mon OK
Sec Air System N/A
A/C Refrig Mon N/A
Oxygen Sens Mon OK
Oxygen Sens Htr OK
EGR System OK
it will not work until my "Passive Anti Theft System" module is reset/reprogrammed so that it matches the configuration of the new PCM. The new PCM HAS been flashed, but it's not one of those where you just switch the chips. So, the car will not turn over until the PATS module is taken care of. club penguin
Long story short, the new PCM most likely is fine, but it will not work until my "Passive Anti Theft System" module is reset/reprogrammed so that it matches the configuration of the new PCM. The new PCM HAS been flashed, but it's not one of those where you just switch the chips. So, the car will not turn over until the PATS module is taken care of.
This is the first time I've heard of PATS, so I am going to research it. I'm afraid that it will have to be done at a Ford dealership ($$$?), I wonder if regular service shops can do it... It doesn't sounds like something I can do myself at least.
I was wondering what had happened to you. I put in a Search for Sordid tale, and there you were.
The monitors for the oxygen sensor heaters were OK, on the old PCM (engine computer). Did you still have DTCs P0135 and P0155 for them? If you did, I don't understand that.
The Catalyst Monitor is incomplete. Is there a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) for the catalytic converter? If that is the only problem, that problem may exist, even, with a new PCM.
You can find out more stuff about pats (passive anti-theft system) by going to the Web with: ford pats. You'll see an ad for a Ford transponder kit for $44.50, which bypasses the PCM pats.
Some independent garages may be able to program the pats for you. Ask them. You could drive there using the old PCM.
Again, are you sure you need the new PCM?
I do still get P0135 and P0155... Only those two... Every time.
Yes, I've read up on PATS by now and my best bet is probably finding a local locksmith that can do them. I just have to explain my situation carefully, because it is not typical. I will call around.
It is my understanding that the I/M Readiness test ONLY tells you if the car has gone through a specific number of drive cycles and has met certain driving/timing conditions during said cycles. From what I'm reading, it is NOT a test that tells you if a certain sensor or system is not functioning properly. Page 49 of the manual for my scan tool describes it's I/M Readiness function: http://www.../98614.pdf . Throughout this ordeal I have periodically checked the I/M Readiness Status and have never seen a "NO" result.
In any case I'm going to read back over the posts here. And read a little bit more before I do anything.
On the monitors, read pages 4 thru 6 in your manual. Also (you may have seen this) read this article: http://www...onitor.htm At 9;35am, my post of 8:29am, and your post of 9:01, had not shown up on the Car Talk first page, in chronological order. Did you make your response from your email? What's up with Car Talk?!
I don't what's wrong with Car Talk... maybe you broke it. Why would you do that?
OK, I'm still a little confused, but that HO2S Monitor link you provided seems quite good and I'll use it to help me inspect all of the wiring associated with the heater wires.
Matthew, cartalk isn't letting your posts (or, my posts) show up on the board. A couple of months ago, there was a running post to car talk about censorship". They didn't listen to anyone. Their only real statement was that they were going to get tougher!
In the past, when cartalk censored ("deleted") a post, an automatic feature sent you an email telling you that your post had been deleted. No reasons offered.
Now, a notice to your email isn't even being sent. Your post just doesn't post.
Look for yourself. Your last post was at 10:14:26. It should be sandwiched between, "Very agrivated wife grrrr! 10:14:42 AM", and, "Trade in or keep? 10:04:34 AM. "Sordid Tale of a "Service Engine" Light 10:14:26 AM"
This post is kinda in the archives section which is the only reason you are getting it. If you can setup a temporary email, for messages from other emails, that should work. Otherwise, you may post a new, "Sordid Tale II".
Oh that's what you mean, I get it now. I have never received an email from Car Talk.
So, anyone can post to this thread, but this thread will never show up on the "car questions" page even when there is a new post. All because of a 'gosh-darn it' or two? If they are worried about the children... how many kids must visit this site? Every other forum I've been on has the ability to automatically asterisk-out naughty words. Whatever.
I may read over everything and summarize what has happened on a new thread. Sheesh.
(Thanks for letting me know about that! This whole time I just figured that the sheer size of the thread was intimidating everyone!)
I read over the link provided by Hellokit, that talks about the O2 sensors. I seems to me there may be an error in the slow response code for bank 2. It shows it as the same code (P0135) as the O2 heater code. I think it should be P0153.
Edit: I also wondered what was going on with this thread. I wonder if there is limit to the number of replies that makes this happen. I have added this to thread 'My Favorites' list so I can get to it.
THIS POST, "Sordid Tale of a "Check Engine" Light" IS CONTINUED UNDER A NEW POST NAME, "Posts not showing up. Why?". CLICK ON THIS LINK TO SEE IT: http://act...35010.page
10/08/2008 3:00:28 PM
