http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalkforums/list.page Public Action Jeff]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132403.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132403.page GMT
I have a 2000 Mercedes Benz ML 320 and am having problems with my power locks. Specifically, the driver side power lock appears to be malfunctioning. When I press the lock button on the remote and also the lock button on the center console, I can hear the motor engaging, but the lock does not go up nor down. I am curious if anyone perhaps has an idea on what the problem may be? The car has side airbags and was thinking to remove the door panel to check-out the power lock - how difficult is it dealing with side airbags?? Any suggestions or recommendations are much appreciated.

Thanks,

D in AZ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132402.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132402.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132401.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132401.page GMT
The second is a car I found at the dealer. It's a 2003 hyundai accent GT with 78,000 miles for $5300. The tires are great and I can't see any rust

I have driven both of these cars and they seem great, although the Subaru feels more stable, the Hyundai of course gets much better gas mileage. I drive ~60 miles total most days to go to work.

I'm absolutely stuck on which car would be the better choice. Of course the Hyundai seems like a cheaper car but most important to me is reliability. Will the older Subaru make it?

Please help me pick one!]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132400.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132400.page GMT Is there any disadvantage in switching tire sizes from 195/55/15 to 185/65/15 for a car with 60k miles and 10yrs old?

It saves a lot on tire prizes.

Speed rating comparison (at 100 it would show 4 mph lower-which is ok for me):
Speedometer(mph)/Actual(mph)
30/31.3
40/41.7
50/52.1
60/62.6
70/73
80/83.4
90/93.9
100/104.3


]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132399.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132399.page GMT
Over the past few weeks it has gotten so bad for me that I've refused to drive the car. We are now living in a temperate area. I was always able to start the car from our garage, but after having it parked somewhere for a couple of hours it would stall. The engine will turn over, and then turn off.

Husband had it mini-tuned today and it handles fine, but he never had the problem. As soon as I tried the blasted car, the same thing happened. The idle was turned up, so it didn't stall as quickly, but it did stall.

My husband says I don't start the car properly and that's the problem, but I've been doing it this way for years: Foot on brake, turn key, engine turns over, and then I accelerate. He says I should start it with my foot on the accelerator to give it a bit of gas. Adult son starts car with neither peddle engaged, then puts his foot on the brake to accelerate. Actually, the instruction manual says to do just that.

So, what is the proper way to get things going? Any thoughts on what's happening here? Thank you, and I'm sorry for such a long posting.
]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132398.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132398.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132397.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132397.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132396.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132396.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132395.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132395.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132394.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132394.page GMT
The tires(Michelin,btw ‘not’ recommending) have worn down on the insides due to the bad front end struts and not knowing how bad they needed replacing. Have not replaced tires yet, but am researching options.
My question: After putting 200-300 miles on the car, the front end started vibrating profusely, but also intermittently. It would come and go at virtually any speed. This occurred after having continuously been driving for over 3 hours on the hwy. Immediately we stopped the car. Eventually, left it with a mechanic, who dropped another 100 miles onto the odometer, only not to find any apparent/obvious problems. He suspected the front tires may be bad due to uneven wear, rotated a front tire out and left it at that. Off we went and 23 miles later it began again to shake hard on the front end. It would come and go, then just flat out continue, or stop for short durations. We stopped, even rotated out the other front tire thinking the balance was off or this tire was bad, but still the same issues prevailed. Then an hour from home it stopped altogether. Any guesses yet?

We thought maybe the air/road surface temperatures or even elevation had some impact on things, ranging from 32-40 degrees. Otherwise we are not mechanics nor proclaim to be.
Some guesses from others:
tires separating
cv axle is going out
drive train or shaft it going out.
Would love to hear other opinions.

Thanks,
]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132393.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132393.page GMT
Saw an old VW beetle with what appeared to be splotchy gray primer paint for a paint job and an ugly luggage rack on top. But it did have what appeared to be low profile tires and shiny rims. Couldn't help but think if all I could afford was an old VW, I sure wouldn't be splurging on fancy rims. ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132392.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132392.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132391.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132391.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132390.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132390.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132389.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132389.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132388.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132388.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132387.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132387.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132386.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132386.page GMT
I was told by the dealer that I needed a new engine.

Since I've been told that the clutch could not have caused the engine to go and it all seems odd that these things would happen at the same time I am questioning the diagnosis. Could this be something else related to the clutch? How can I determine if this is a loose fly wheel or something else other than the engine? ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132385.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132385.page GMT I really would like to know your opinion about the problem I am having.
Let me explain....

about 2 months ago,while I was driving 97 nissan altima on the highway about 70mph, my radio sound got weird and volume was kind gotten lower by itself. I thought that the station I was listening had some problems. However, it turned out that all the channel sound weirds. That happened for about 5 minues. And then radio sound came back fine. And suddenly, AC does not blow cold air any more and also blower did not blow much air out. Luckily I could get home.
Next day, I call AAA battery service, and guy checked battery and alternator. He tole me that alternator does not look good, but, machine showed that battery is bad. So, I went to Autozone and replace the battery right away. and It seemed like that all the problem had been taken care of for about 2 wks.
Unluckily, it happened again while I was driving on Highway. This time, while I was driving local, suddenly airbag light came on, and wiper was very slowly moving. I hope I can make to home. When I got on highway, the speedometer and tacometer were dancing, and several other lights were blinking. It was total mess. However, car ran fine. However, after driving like that for 10 min, car was getting sluggish and finally, engine stopped and I had to pull over and towed the car.
I thought that the problem is due to alternator. Anyway, my neighbor checked the battery, and bettery was totally drained. So we thought that alternator is defective. He charged my battery, and I went to Autozone to check the alternator. Voila! the test result was battery and alternator was fine. No problem at all.
They told me that it can be loose ground and etc.
My neighbor checked alternator, and ground on alternator was little bit loose, and the original nuts(?) for ground on alternator was craked, so that he put the ground wire to the right next nuts on alternator. And I did not have any problem for 3 wks. And it happen again yesterday. The symptom was same, radio made wabbling sound..and tacometer moved back and forth with turn signal. So I went to O Reiley this time. They told me that battery level is too low around 15% and they can not check the alternator due to that reason.
So I went to autozone again. They just checked the battery, and told me that it is fine. and To check the alternator, they want me to start the car, and car was completely dead. I could not understand how the battery result was fine.
Anyway, they rechared the battery for 40 min. and I came back home.
Today, I went another O'Reiley, and the result was alternator is underpowered. It was about 30A (??) lower than normal range. And I went to autozone, and ofcouse, the results were fine as always.
They both used same kind of handheld tester.
And I went to another O Reiley, just in case, and battery and alternator were fine. When I went to autozone today around 2pm, they told me that battery level was about 85%. and when I visit O reiley around 6pm, the level was 75%. To me, it looks like that alternator does not charge the battery. I checked at home the battery voltage was about 12.5 without engine on, and with engine on, it was about 13.7.
With a lot of load such as light, ac, ...it was about 13.4.
All the connection looks fine, and the ground wire looked fine. I don't know how to check ohm, I could not do that part. I have multitester. If someone can let me know how to check ground wiring, please let me know.
Long story short, I'd like to know why this happening.

1. Short??
2. Loose connection?
3. Alternator?

Thank you very much for reading my long, poor writing. I really appreciate your help.
]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132384.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132384.page GMT
Is a solenoid valve inside the transmission part of the transmission? Should its repair be covered under our ATRA warranty?

Please help. We need our car to return to Grama and Grampa's for the holidays and would like not to lose our shirts in the process.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132383.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132383.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132382.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132382.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132381.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132381.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132380.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132380.page GMT
I wonder if the shop may have forgotten to hit the reset switch on the oil light -- though the light wasn't on at the time of the change.

Does that need to be reset after each oil change?

]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132379.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132379.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132378.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132378.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132377.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132377.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132376.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132376.page GMT Was driving at 55 MPH in rain-motor just stopped, was able to start while coasting. went 20 miles no problem. Next day same thing happened. Today-warm/clear went 20 miles no problem-then would not start. Could hear fuel pump ? run. Let set -started after sitting 20 min. stopped several times-restarting each time. Now stays running at idel in driveway-I turned it off after about 20 min. Was able to get some codes from dash--0320 and 1391-
With an older car-would say this seemed like fuel pump about to fail-?? any thoughts --if fuel pump failed would the crankshaft code come up??
Help-will need to trouble shoot myself-not in position to take to dealer.
Thanks]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132375.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132375.page GMT function popup(mylink, windowname){if (! window.focus)return true;var href;if (typeof(mylink) == 'string') href=mylink;else href=mylink.href;window.open(href, windowname, 'width=475,height=150,scrollbars=no,resizable=no');return false;}


Does running E85 fuel with up to 85% ethanol, actually lower your MPG? That was the question this week from Kirsten in Oregon. (You can hear her call right here-- it's second in the segment.) Her Flex-Fuel Chrysler Town and Country is getting lousy mileage and rough running rough-- but only when she uses E85.

Tom and Ray claimed that lower MPG is to be expected, since E85 has fewer BTUs than old-fashioned gas. They also claim the same thing in our Car Talk Guide to Alternative Fuels.

What do you think? If you drive a flex-fuel vehicle, what's your experience? We want to hear from you.

Share your thoughts right here-- and thanks.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132374.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132374.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132372.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132372.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132371.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132371.page GMT
Problem: radio emits strong static noise when car engine is on, but reception is clear when engine is off. Ongoing for >year.

Original Radio: Alpine radio with retractable GPS

Actions to date: 1) Audio system examined twice by Suburu and Alpine mechanics, each claiming that the problem arose from the other's domain. 2) Suburu replaced aerial pre-amplifier, but with no improvement. 3) Best Buy removed & upgraded old Alpine unit to Pioneer AVIC-U310BT 4.3 radio/GPS and replaced all wiring. Radio static problem remains while iPOD amplification is crystal clear and GPS works fine.

Please HELP]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132370.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132370.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132369.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132369.page GMT
Here's the dilemma, although I'm not convinced that it is one. Any tips or feedback would be most welcome:

The insurer is stating that the car is repairable and putting on a full court press to do the repairs, at their contracted shop. No tear-down was done, the initial estimate was 4925 - all used parts, of course. A supplement for the timing belt was added for about 675. I also asked for a supplement on the engine block heater, which at best is not working, which at worst, could've done something more. The shop is claiming no frame damage. The entire front, hood, left fender, left mirror are kaput.

The repair damages are already at close to 6k, and the insurer has made no statement of warranty as to future issues and repairs at this point.

The collision occurred over 100 mi from home and it was towed back at a cost of $500, which the insurer covered. They're also covering $40/day rental for up to 30 days. By the time the estimate came in a week later, plus the 8 days of work, they're up to 860 for rental. 1360 in addition to the actual repair costs.

I have 1k deductible. One second before the collision the car was worth about 9k, mid-range valuation. Two sources have now calculated the diminished loss at 2 - 3k (which I can't really claim as the deer didn't have coverage.) If the repairs are performed, I'm left with a 5k valued car (9k minus my deductible paid, minus 3000 devaluation), with potential future issues.

The insurer is up to approx 7300 costs on this car. In addition to the fairly obvious math on all of this, does it make any sense to agree to repairs? The insurer is the only one to think so. The local salvage value was estimated at 2k. If they pay out the market value (MT law requires it be "market value", nothing else), minus my deductible, they're also recouping 2k on the salvage.

I look forward to helpful input - thanks!]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132368.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132368.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132367.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132367.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132366.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132366.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132365.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132365.page GMT If I turn car off , come out and start it and run the car everything is fine .. Think it may be grounding problem .. I have checked only the battery Terminals at this point -- any ideas . This a Jeep Cherokee Sport 1998 model with a 4.0 L]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132364.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132364.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132362.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132362.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132361.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132361.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132360.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132360.page GMT BTW what I'm looking for is a rear bumper reinforcement for a '94 Toyota Camry wagon]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132359.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132359.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132358.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132358.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132357.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132357.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132356.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132356.page GMT
What other things can I do?

]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132355.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132355.page GMT
While driving the car gets warmed up and running well. Once driving a few miles it will start to lunge slightly when the foot isn't on the gas. In other words, if I'm driving 45MPH and take my foot off the gas there will be a little lunge to deal with. If the car is in park or in neutral the engine will idle 1000-1500RPM higher than if it was in drive with my foot on the brake.

Other than that it drives fine. There are no other issues. ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132354.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132354.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132353.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132353.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132352.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2132352.page GMT