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Fred refers me to the dealer for emissions systems issues because it saves him a headache and a parts run, so when my "check engine" light came on I made an appointment with the dealer. Drove car 30 miles to dealer. Got THE CALL. The check engine light is on because of an air injector - $215. Sure, totally expected to pay $200-$300 to fix whatever it was. Then the service rep goes on to tell me that my head gaskets are leaking oil and gas. Then he says I also need new front and rear brake pads and rotors. Total, just over $5k. When I questioned the service rep regarding the head gaskets, he quickly said that I wouldn't have noticed anything on my garage floor, but it's leaking. I was too shocked to ask how he knew such a thing and what tests they had done.

Now I adore Fred the Mechanic and I really do trust him (for good reasons) so I told dealer man to just fix the air injector. Spiderman will go back to Fred next week for a look-see. The brakes are a maybe - maybe they need a hug, maybe not. Fred admits he didn't see anything obvious when he last worked on Spiderman (and he has seen brake things before on oil changes) but he's perfectly willing to take a second look. To Fred and me, the head gasket is downright strange. Fred will take a look and if he says there is seepage or a leak, I'll probably follow his recommendation.

However, cost-wise, and repair now/future repair-wise, if I really do need $4k+ of repair now, should I do it? Has Spiderman hit some invisible wall where it'll be thousands a year to keep him on the road? His body has started to show some small rust spots under the paint and a little on some random undercarriage parts. I was thinking of taking Spiderman to a body shop this Spring and having the little bits of rust cleaned up/repaired/repainted. I expect the body stuff to cost $2k.

I'd appreciate some advice as to whether I should keep repairing Spiderman or if that call was actually the death knell.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137099.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137099.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137098.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137098.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137097.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137097.page GMT
I’d like to sell it and make a few bucks, but would consider donating it.... either to some individual or group... I need the room in my garage.

Question: What are my options? Thank you !!
]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137096.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137096.page GMT Does anyone know how the Honda Ridgeline compares to the Toyota Tacoma in terms of reliablity, maintence, resellability, overall performance, etc?
Thanks]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137095.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137095.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137094.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137094.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137093.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137093.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137091.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137091.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137090.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137090.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137089.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137089.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137088.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137088.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137087.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137087.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137086.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137086.page GMT I own a 99 ford contour se. 83,000 original miles on it. couple of days ago I noticed a rumble in the rear, right passenger area. Sounded like a can or bottle rolling around in the trunk. My mechanic put it up on the lift and was so stunned he called me at home to come look at it. Turns out the the rear sub-frame was so rusted and broken half of the right side had broken off from the body of the car. The amount of rust was unbelievable. it was covering the whole area including the fuel lines. My mechanic had never seen anything like it. He said it was like the rear end of the car was sitting in salt water for a while. Which is crazy because I am the original owner and don't even go to the beach. My mechanic told me the chances of fixing it are 50/50, plus depending on the extent of the damage it will cost me boku bucks. I contacted the dealer & the Ford 800 # and they all told me there was no recalls and their corrosion coverage only covers the first five years of ownership. In short, I'm SOL. Has anyone encountered such a problem? It just bothering me because there was virtually no rust in the front part of the car. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. I need a new car and was thinking of the Ford Fusion, however, I sorta feel reluctant and unwilling to give them my money again. Can anyone recommend a reliable, well-made sedan for under $20?
I'm desperate. Thanks you very much. Ban]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137085.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137085.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137084.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137084.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137083.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137083.page GMT
When I start my car and it warms up after 15 minutes or so, I hear this squeaky noise coming from the engine (nearest the front seat passenger side). This noise can only be heard if the car is at stop or when driving under 10mph.

My mechanic told me that it should disappear with time however I got a timing belt replaced on another Accord at the dealership and did not experience similar squeaky sounds.

Thanks
]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137082.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137082.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137081.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137081.page GMT and unintended acceleration.
My dad remarked about high powered cars, that no matter the power of the car, if the brake system was working properly, the
brakes will overpower the engine. And he demonstrated this briefly from a standing start, and while moving, with one foot on the accelerator and one on the brake. Not a practice for general use, but just to make a point.
During the Audi events of old, similar to today's Toyota problems, he always believed that it was driver error, due to the pedal arrangement in those vehicles being odd to U.S. drivers.
Now he is not around to comment on the current issue, but I'm curious what those out there think? Won't properly functioning brakes stop an accelerating car, and, in a standard transmission vehicle, stall the engine? Thanks, Joe ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137080.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137080.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137079.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137079.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137078.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137078.page GMT Thanks guys love your show!!!!!!
Kellyannie]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137077.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137077.page GMT Can anyone tell me why my push button 4wheel drive wwill not engage?

Dash board buttons click, but no lights and no action.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137075.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137075.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137074.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137074.page GMT All regular maintenance had been performed by a local Toyota dealership until recently.
Other than replacing the catalytic converter at 79000 miles, no major work has been done.

Gas mileage had been 30 to 33 mpg, in town. 30 to 37 mpg on the highway; varies with speed.

2/3 to 3/4 of the miles are stop & go, city.

I use the same regional chain for gasoline when available, & have done so for the past 3 months.

I live in a mild winter climate area, southern 1/2 of AZ.

3 weeks ago, I took my RAV4 to an independent repair shop, on the recommendation of a trusted friend.

Service performed:
Spark plugs changed to NG brand plugs. [ Spark plug change is recommended at 120K miles ].
Oil & coolant / antifreeze changed.

Filters changed: cabin air filter; engine air filter; engine oil filter.

Items cleaned: mass air flow meter; throttle plates.

Items inspected:
All fluids; drive belts, hoses, brakes, fuel lines, fuel cap, steering components, suspension components, suspension components, exterior lights, exhaust piping & mounts.
Brakes all 70%.

Onboard computer scanned for fault codes; none found.

Gas mileage is now 25 mpg.

Does this RAV4 have a carburetor?

Other than the possibilities of switch to a colder spark plug or improperly gapped spark plug, what should I tell the mechanic when I take my Toyota RAV4 back?

Thanks for your help.

s_s]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137073.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137073.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137072.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137072.page GMT
The car just refuses to turn over, and all I hear are little periodic clicks from the engine. Sometimes on the "warmer" times if I wait 10 minutes and try again, it starts.

One sure way to get my car to start is to connect jumper cables to another car. I can then immediately start my car just fine; I'm not even sure it can count as being a jump. If I then turn the car off, and start it again it's fine. If I leave it alone for 3 minutes it will not start by itself anymore.

Mechanics, the dealership, and myself are completely stumped. Does anyone have a solution?

During late spring, summer, and fall I don't see this problem.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137071.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137071.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137070.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137070.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137069.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137069.page GMT
I do highway miles... always have. It seems like I am always going through brakes... having to get them shaved and replaced.... is it common on this year and model to have brake problems?

i want this car to last another year... any suggestions?]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137068.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137068.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137067.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137067.page GMT True?]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137066.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137066.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137065.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137065.page GMT
My local repair shop wants $140 just for an estimate!

Does anyone know if there are better places to get estimates, and once the estimate is done, will they replace my manual override switch? I think that they probably would not want to replace it.

If it was a thermostat problem, would the thermostat on my dashboard work?

Is it cheaper to buy the parts for all of the potential problems rather than pay for the estimate?

Does a radiator fan stay on once the car has reached a certain temperature? Or does it cycle on and off? I worry that my leaving the fan on when I am driving may affect the battery. ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137064.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137064.page GMT
About 1-2x per month, the engine will have issues starting. All other times, the engine starts fine, no issues. Lately though, when we do have the starting issue, it takes more tries to get the car started...

Symptoms: When trying to start, we hear the click of the solenoid and the starter turns and then it just keeps cycling/spinning/clicking, etc. After 15-30 sec. of this, it will usually finally start. Or sometimes, we will have to stop, wait a few minutes, then try again for another 30 sec. attempt.

As I mentioned, about 90% of the time the car starts fine.

The latest time though, I couldn't start it, had it towed to the dealership and it started right up....of course.

I'm suspecting it is something electrical since we have no fuel starvation issues while idling or driving...

Had the battery tested and it is strong and spark plugs/wires were recently changed.

Any ideas? Ignition Switch?]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137063.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137063.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137062.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137062.page GMT
Thanks in advance for your help!]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137061.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137061.page GMT
Have I been taken? Should I squawk? Or should I take a deep breath and just write the check, and be thankful I have a job to go to?

I just started seeing this mechanic because my mechanic, the best mechanic one in the world, threw in the solo business towel and started working for this guy. I went with the same sense of trust...was I naive? What do you think?]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137060.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137060.page GMT i have to turn the engine off and turn it back on then it moves with hesitations.
any help is greatly appreciated.
]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137059.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137059.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137058.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137058.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137057.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137057.page GMT
Today the same problem happened for the first time while it was running. it was just for an instant, but it happened as the car was slowing to go through a turn. When the power went off, the engine quit and no power to the dash lights or guages. Just prior to the power outage the guages went crazy and fluctuated up and down. They smoothed out when I sped up.

I know it is an electrical problem but I've never encountered anything like this before. Can anyone give me a place to start looking?]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137056.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137056.page GMT In cold weather, until the car warms up, the brakes don't work. It is more that the braking system doesn't work. If I press on the peddle hard, the car will slow. So, I let the car warm up until the brakes "work" normally. Any idea why this happens?]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137055.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137055.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137054.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137054.page GMT Any other ideas?]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137053.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137053.page GMT
My wife's car broke down a couple weeks ago and I suggested she go get the truck and drive it around town for the day, but it wouldn't start. I thought it was a low battery charge as it would crank but very slowly, so I pulled out the charger and let it charge for a few hours.

After it charged, I was finally able to get it to start, but just barely. After two minutes of babying it, slowly warming up the engine, it finally started running right. It was floundering badly for those couple minutes. Its done this a few times since last summer, but usually just stumbled a bit when it first started up.

Do I just need to do some routine maintenance on the vehicle or is this a symptom of something more dire? Thanks.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137052.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137052.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137051.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137051.page GMT They never admitted fault. http://www...ement.html
People have died in Toyotas that have accelerated without explanation. Do you think Toyota did all they could do as soon as they could do it in relation to this most recent problem? Is a Toyota safe to drive?]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137050.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137050.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137049.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137049.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137048.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2137048.page GMT