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		<title><![CDATA[cartalk discussions]]></title>
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		<description><![CDATA[The newest discussed for "cartalk"]]></description>
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				<title>Dashboard lights</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Some of the lights on my dash are out.All work but the gas gauge,rpm,radiator,speed, do not. You know,the four that are in the cirles on my dash. Any ideas?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131697.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 12:27:35]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ maryoochy]]></author>
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				<title>taurus tuneup</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 95 taurus, 6 cylinder engine. The engine is side mounted, and I want to change the plugs and wires. the front plugs have some plastic pieces which are easily removed to get access, but the back plugs are hard to get to. Do I have to get them from underneath, or do I need to do something else to get access to them?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 12:19:39]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ checkers]]></author>
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				<title>95 bmw 525 wagon-repair or dump</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ 130k miles, Cracked head- estimated cost $5K. Brakes at 50%, needs front struts $850. Body and interior great condition. Should we fix it or get rid of it.HELP!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 12:15:20]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ 95bmw530]]></author>
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				<title>Rattling/stuttering in 99 Ford Escort</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I've got a '99 Ford Escort (150k miles) that occasionally has a rattling/stutter problem at startup.  The rattling is directly in front of the driver, and sounds as though it comes from the very front of the car.<br/> <br/> The rattling and stuttering generally stop within about 2 minutes, or the first half-mile of driving.  Any thoughts on what it could be?  Stuttering in the past has turned out to be loose spark plugs, but I've checked those.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 12:02:06]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Jfharrington]]></author>
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				<title>1996 Honda Civic Pinging Cold Engine</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I bought this car new.  It had 223,000 trouble free miles.. Only "complaint" is that it pings on a cold engine when accelerating.  Timing belt has been changed regularly.. spark plugs and wires also changed]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131692.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 11:57:58]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ pepe810]]></author>
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				<title>brake light vs. tail light</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. I am just curious. When I put my foot on the brakes in the daytime, does the bulb that lights up in the back of my car the same bulb that turns on when I turn on my headlights in the nighttime? Thank you. abxxx]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131691.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 11:57:43]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ abxxx]]></author>
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				<title>Car running rough</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Car is running rough.  At stops, the RPMs go up and down.  It sometimes stalls out when in reverse.  There is also a squeeking noise that sounds like breaks going bad, except it stops when breaking.  In 2008 we had the oxygen sensor and idle air control valve replaced.  This summer we had a tune up the injectors cleaned and the fuel filter replaced.  Still having trouble, we took the car back and they replaced the MAF sensor.  Now 3 months later, the car is running rough again.  What could it be?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131690.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 11:42:19]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ kellid]]></author>
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				<title>Fuel Injector Cleaning</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Is it really necessary to pay $89.95 for a fuel injection cleaning from my dealer, or will a bottle of injector cleaner do the job?  If the bottle of injector cleaner will work, what are the best brands?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131689.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 11:40:00]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ techhokie1]]></author>
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				<title>ford</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ my transmission slips]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131688.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131688.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 11:34:00]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ thadbednar]]></author>
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				<title>loss of power during accelerating</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Have 2001 Ford Focus zx3 z-tec engine with five speed manual.  Could not get my car to start and didn't hear fuel pump running, so we have changed the fuel pump/filter.  The car will start but will lose a lot of power when I accelerate (pedal to the floor).  Almost as I am shutting off my car.  The check engine light came on but have not got it checked.  Will the car go in a safe mode if a certain fault occurs?  Up for any ideas.....  ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131687.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 11:00:19]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ marcel8u]]></author>
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				<title>ford transmission</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ my transmission slips when i accelerate from a dead stop.  i just had the transmission serviced (they changed the fluid and filter).  the problem started after i had the transmission serviced.  i checked the fluid level and it is ok.  what could the problem be and how do i fix it?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 10:58:01]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ thadbednar]]></author>
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				<title>Ripoff on brakes?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ My wife took our 1999 Toyota 4 Runner to the dealership to have the brakes checked.  She thought they weren't performing as well as they used to and wantted them looked at. After a few hours they called and said the front rotors and pads needed to be replaced.  She asked for the old parts if they felt they needed to do this and reluctantly agreed to the work at 600.00.  It was also getting an oil change. We recently moved to a new area, had the vehicle inspected 5 months ago and had about 3000 miles since the inspection. On the drive home, the brakes didn't seem any better and she realized the old parts weren't given to her as agreed.  When she went back to get parts and she had to wait about an hour to get them.  When she got home later I looked at the parts and the rotors looked fine, there were only one set of pads returned in the car and measured them.  When she got home the removed brake disks looked nearly new and measured between 21.65 and 21.70 mm. Minimum thickness is 20.0 mm and nominal new thickness is 21.7 to 21.8 mm.  The pads were also far from the wear indicators and the pads returned had 4.7 and 6.7 mm shoe thickness remaining.  I sent an email to Toyota motors North America and after a week  was asked to allow them to originate a talk with the customer service manager at the dealer.  We said OK but are not comfortable dealing again with a group who appears very questionable.  Our gut feel is to avoid contact with the dealer.  Are we overly sensitive, or were we ripped off?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 10:55:20]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ stanishr]]></author>
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				<title>Problem with 05 Mazda3 5door 2.3 liter</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have had the car for a year and have been doing the regular maintence, it is high milage at 87,000. It came with no papers, but I can assume it was driven hard. I do mostly city driving which is hard also. The problem is when the engine is cold it won't go out of park unless I pump the brakes a few times. I can tell it is ready to go into gear because the brake pedal will go to the floor. <br/> Does anyone have any ideas?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 10:38:45]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ debby55]]></author>
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				<title>car door will not open</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ The drivers door on my 1994 Grand Prix coupe will not open.I've loosened the inside door panel and both the inside and outside handles are moving the lever on the lock mechanism to it's upper limit.I've tried pushing with my shoulder from the inside and a pry bar from the outside.Any advice would be greatly appreciated.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 10:26:15]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ ease111]]></author>
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				<title>Honda Civic windshield wiper problem</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2007 Honda Civic with about 36,000 miles.  My windshield wipers have developed an odd problem.  They do not turn off right away when turned to the off position but instead wipe 10-15 more times and then stop in a random position on the windshield.  They do the same thing in the mist position - they wipe more times than they should and then stop randomly.  They also do not work in the intermittant position but instead wipe at the same rate as in the low position.  When they have stopped in a random position on the windshield and the wiper control is in the off position, if the car is turned off and then turned on again sometimes they will begin wiping again when the car is turned on, then they will stop randomly after a short session of wiping.  Sometimes though when the power comes on again and they are in the off position they will just return to the normal off position and then they will operate normally for a while.  they seem to operate normally in the low and high wiper position.<br/> I took the car into the dealer, but this is an intermittant problem and the wipers were working when I went in.  They will switch between working normally and the problems described above seemingly at random.  I am having trouble getting the problem diagnosed because there is no way of knowing if they will be mis-behaving when they go in.  I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has had this problem or has any idea of what might be going on.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 10:26:14]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ maple75]]></author>
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				<title>transmission</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ trans rev's in 2nd during cold weather only]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131681.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131681.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 10:13:23]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ seemill14]]></author>
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				<title>distributor</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ My mechanic, whom I trust completely, has now replaced my distributor 5 times - and it feels like the newest one is doing the same thing and it's only 4 days old. What's wrong with my vehicle that a distributor has to be replaced every month? Do I need a distributor made by Mazda? Thanks for your help.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 09:44:25]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ LJWinters]]></author>
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				<title>Head On car crash</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ If two cars of the same weight (mass), size, shape, etc.  hit head on at 50 mph, does that equate to a relative force (for passengers)  as if the car was traveling at 100mph?  I can understand the relative approach speed to impact as 100mph, but would think the passengers would only feel the force of 50 mph – as if the car hit a solid concrete wall at 50mph instead of another car.<br/> What do you think?<br/> ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131679.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131679.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 09:30:28]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ drjay888]]></author>
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				<title>headlights</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ My 95 Grand Prix low beams and running lights stopped working.  Brights still work.  Fuse appears good and I can't find a relay.  The book was not helpful.  Anyone have an idea?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131678.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131678.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 09:02:48]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ cardad74]]></author>
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				<title>battery probem that can't be solved</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2007 Volvo s40 with just under 24,000 miles on it. The problem with this giant paper weight is that it each year for the last three years the battery has died on almost exactly the same date. Needless to say November has not been a good month. The first time the “battery failed” the dealer claimed that the battery had a bad cell (replaced with a new battery). The second time the dealer claimed that the alarm/message center could have been sending a faulty or fake signal, thus tripping the battery( volvo replaced the battery, and alarm switch). Finally, this past week the car was returned and surprise, the dealer claimed the battery had a bad cell. I find it odd that the battery dies exactly one year to the date of its replacement.  Volvo claims that no one in their system has reported this problem. One more thing, each time the old battery was tested, it was incapable of holding a charge. In other words, once the battery went dead-it could not be brought back to hold a charge. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.   ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 08:59:46]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Burger]]></author>
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				<title>Brake problem - intermittent</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ 1997 Volvo 850 GLT sedan.  135K miles, excellent conditon.  Had the front brakes replaced 5 months ago.  Three months later comng to a stop the pedal went to the floor and no brakes.  Managed to stop with the hand brake.  Checked fluid and it was at proper level and monitored the floor for leaks - none.  Drove for the next two months and not a single problem.  Last night pulling into the garage the pedal again went to the floor and I hit my tool bench!  Is it possible to have air in the lines and have this kind of problem so infrequently?  No leaks and fluid is still at the proper level.  Help - this is my teenage daughters car and I am afraid to let her drive it now.  Can it be a problem with another system componenet?<br/> <br/> Thanks!]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131676.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 08:16:37]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ mattk15]]></author>
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				<title>Tire size</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2006 Nissan Xterra and want to replace all 4 tires because it's time to do so. Stock tire size are 265/70/16. Will a 265/75/16 be compatible to my Xterra? I am currently researching All Terrain tires. Right now I have my eyes on Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac, and don't carry 265/70/16 but have 265/75/16.<br/> Thanks, Clueless102]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131675.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 04:29:46]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Clueless102]]></author>
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				<title>Mercedes Dilemma</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have been told that I need a new transmission for my 2000 E320 and it will cost nearly $6000! The Kelley Blue Book Private Value for the car in good condition is only around $7000. I have 123000 miles on the car. Is that quote high for a new tranny and should I do it or think about just selling the car in its present not workable condition?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131674.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131674.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 7 Nov 2009 00:49:00]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ barondeh]]></author>
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				<title>1991 Geo Metro oil misting out of tailpipe</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have oil and water misting out of the tailpipe. What would cause that? ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131673.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131673.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 23:50:16]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ wumps501]]></author>
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				<title>New used Vibe or other wagon -suggestions?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have an old 94 Corolla wagon that is starting to get a bit unreliable (high repair costs lately).  I'm thinking of a newer used car/wagon.  I drive lots of highway miles (200-300+ per week), less in city.   Would like to get over 30 mpg.  Outdoorsy lifestyle - space needed for kayaks, pets, and gear.  Prefer to spend under $10K but can go higher.  Reliability and mileage are important.   Prefer under 90K miles.  <br/> <br/> Here's what I like so far:  <br/> *Pontiac Vibe, but hard to find manual transmission. <br/> *Matrix - meh. <br/> *2004-plus Prius, but don't know about reliability once they are aging, expensive. <br/> *2003+ Rav4<br/> *Mazda wagons - don't know much about them.  Assumed mazda unreliable in past. <br/> *Subarus - ok, but don't like lower mpg.   <br/> <br/> Your comments, please?   Thanks.  ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131672.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 23:32:16]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ toyota2]]></author>
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				<title>Subaru Legacy </title>
				<description><![CDATA[ My daughter's 95 Subaru Legacy has had trouble starting the engine after the last two long trips she has taken (2 hours).  She waits an hour and then it starts fine.  The electrical (radio, etc) go on but the engine does not.  P.S.  Just put a new starter in the car this year.  ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 22:52:44]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ lillian4]]></author>
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				<title>hard brake pedal</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ On a 2000 GMC 2500 pick up when I reach a certain point turning right the brake pedal becomes hard and will not depress.  Therefore the brakes won"t work.  As I turn further or back they will work again. Any Ideas?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131670.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 22:28:55]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ edskii]]></author>
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				<title>Re: New dash lights for old car</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ YOu are likely to have overheating problems if you switch to more powerful bulbs.  I would try LEDs instead.  I suspect another problem if your vision is "normal" for your age and you can't see them with full-on.  Maybe the control is bad somehow.  Some of these dim by controlling voltage and others are PWM.  Can you see the dash display in other cars.

Try a Toyota PU board or an automotive electrical shop for suggestions in either of the directions I suggest.

]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 21:51:00]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Beadsandbeads]]></author>
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				<title>Bosch Auxiliary Air Valve, part number 0280140145</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Dear Click And Clack：<br/> <br/> Ｉlisten to you show regularly, and I enjoy it every week.<br/> <br/> I have been driving 1987 VW Golf for more than fifteen years. This car has many troubles but I have figure out so far.<br/> <br/> Recently I found that an Auxiliary Air Valve that this car has is not working well. <br/> <br/> On the many web site, many parts seller show that they have this valve, but actually they do not have it. I asked VW dealers that exist near me of course. <br/> <br/> If you know any parts sellers that have this Valve, will you let me know?<br/> <br/> VW Parts number is 049 133 453, also this is Bosch Auxiliary Air Valve 0280140145.<br/> <br/> In Germany, they may have it.  But I can’ t buy it since I can’t read Germany.<br/> <br/> And there are several Bosch Auxiliary Air Valve only the number are different.  Am I able to use those valves tuning air and fuel? If you know, will you let me know?<br/> <br/> <br/> Sincerely,<br/> <br/> Kaoru Matsuzawa<br/> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 21:50:32]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ kaorumat]]></author>
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				<title>wobbly brakes &amp; wheel rotation</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Often the wheels on my car feel wobbly, especially when braking, but sometimes much worse than at other times...  what could be causing this?  The rotors are still fairly new and the pads are fine.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131667.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 21:35:27]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Palowi]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>New dash lights for old car</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 1989 Toyota pickup and am having trouble with the dash lights.  I am thinking of having them replaced en masse along with any fuses.  As I am getting older, I find that I need more light to see things.  What I want to know is if I ask my garage to replace the bulbs can I specify that they use higher wattage bulbs or is the design of the dash light system such that only one type of lights, those of the wattage in 1989, will work.  I am hoping that they can use brighter bulbs.  Thanks for any help. Mark]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131666.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131666.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 21:11:59]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ mhuebner]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>all wheel drive</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I'm going to purchase an 04 and it says it has all wheel drive. I live in upstate NY and I'm getting it from NC. Can anyone explain to me what this is?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131665.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131665.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 20:40:24]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ br6808]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Keyring Remote Lock/Unlock device</title>
				<description><![CDATA[      When I bought my 95 GMC Savana Van, I had the dealer install a remote starter. The keyring control was supposed to lock and unlock all the doors too. Never did! From the gitgo... it has worked on all the doors except the drivers door! That one only will remotely unlock occasionally when it's raining, or cold and snowy. The original factory keyring control works fine though, and always has. <br/>      The GM service manager told me that I'd just have to use both controls. Later when I protested and said I'd like them to make good on the installation, I was told that too much time had elapsed and it would cost me perhaps $150 or so. Of course I refused.<br/>      Can you suggest what might be going on, and is there anything that I can do to set things right, other than spray painting graffiti on the Service Bay doors?<br/>      Thanks very much and Thanks too for Car Talk and all the smiles......... Roger<br/> ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131664.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131664.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 20:30:12]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Ponderosa guy]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>85 Ford Explorer (F150) 2WD Heater Problems</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Once I get the truck warmed up and I turn push the handles to defrost and heat I smell radiator fluid for a little bit.  <br/> <br/> Second problem, the heater blower only works on high.  <br/> <br/> The heat works great.  I do not hear liquid moving behind the dash like I had on a Mazada that had the heater core go out.  So what gives with the radiator smell and what do I do about the blower only working on high?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131663.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131663.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 20:16:35]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ kawadley]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>98 VW Passat Engine Mount Leaks</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I am considering buying a very well maintained 98 VW Passat with 56,000 (one owner) for $3,000.  I've been told that the engine mount has a small leak and due to the age of the car, the timing belt should be changed.  What can I expect these repairs to cost and is the price of the car with the repairs still a good deal? ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131662.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131662.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:33:11]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ dlo2020]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>TPMS</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2007 Toyota Camry and the tire pressure warning light is on.  I've replaced the sensors many times and within 2 weeks the light comes back on.  Is there a way to reset the system without taking it to a dealership?  Or is there a way to disable the system all together?  Any feedback would be helpful.  Thanks!]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131661.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131661.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:29:20]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ sonshine327]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Heating Problem</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I am not getting heat. Fan blower works- Heating control valve "new" works but no fluid is going into core. Had engine and core flushed-told core was fine-no blockage. Thermostat "new". When I turn on the fan the " Heating Control Valve diaphragm appears to be working. The engine is getting hot and over heating than temperature goes goes down-could this indicate water pump blade is broke not pushing throw fluids? I am at a real loss here! Help cold weather-freezing weather coming.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131660.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131660.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:22:20]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ sidserious]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>clunking noises and car shakes </title>
				<description><![CDATA[ My car makes clunking, creaking noises going over the smallest bumps. Also, when I brake at speeds over 40, the whole car shakes. Have had the brakes done, all tires replaced and the struts checked. I'm worried about safety. ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131659.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131659.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:09:19]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ 1kathy]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>'97 Park Avenue High-Speed Vibration</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I was getting a vibration when the brakes were applied because of warped brake rotors. I have replaced the rotors and that is corrected. Now, I am getting a vibration at 70+ mph without the brakes applied. Could the rotor installation cause that? The rotor installation instructions referred to a "non-reusable spindle nut". I never removed one. One twist: I'm not sure if the car vibrated like that before because I never drove it that fast before. I just bought it. What else would cause a vibration to occur only at high speeds? Thanks...... Mark]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131658.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131658.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:06:54]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ marktwark]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>1984 Maserati Biturbo</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Where can i find a clutch fork and how much is it?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131657.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131657.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:01:14]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ hondas2000]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>fuse</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ 40 amp AM 1 (or I) fuse - what does it feed?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131656.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131656.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 18:19:43]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ matteismith]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>Oil and Transmission Change for Low Mileage</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2005 Ford F-150 with 8,000 miles, its used mostly for trailer towing and a little bit around town driving.<br/> How often should I change the engine oil/filter and transmission fluid.<br/> I currently change the engine oil/filter every 6 months, still on the original transmission fluid. The truck as the towing option included (IE a transmission and oil cooler) ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131655.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131655.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 18:03:11]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ SCADATom]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Break Down!</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ <br/> Yesterday 11-05-2009, my 1990 Buick Century Limited broke down.  It went into a rough Idle, then just stopped running, engine stopped.  It then restarted after a couple of minutes, and let out some dirty exhaust,alchohol smelling and shooting out some like oil pigments??  Then cut out again and the check engine light came on along, with the check oil light.  Please help!!! =)<br/> <br/> The car has oil at right level on dipstick, has a new air filter, and alternator.  I did an oil filter and change at the end of September,  so this is very new and all of the sudden.  =(]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131654.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131654.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 17:15:55]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ BIGROB]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Service Engine Soon idiot light</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I rescued a 1992 Olds 98 Regency Elite from a garage where it had sat undriven for over 3 years, with only 40K miles.  When I replaced the dead battery it started right up.  I added fresh gasoline and fuel injector cleaner.  It runs just fine.  The question is this:  The Service Engine Soon light comes on and sometimes goes off.  Is this a false negative that will go away after a few tanks of fresh gasoline?  Or is it warning that should be heeded immediately?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131653.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131653.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 17:10:42]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Jerachrome]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>Audio addition to '93 Silverado</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Do not want to hook into current audio as it is a dino and cannot play CD's.  Also do not wish to use tape style converter. <br/> <br/> So i have decided to add the cd player as a stand alone.  I imagine it is as simple as running pwr, grnd and speakers?<br/> <br/> Thanks.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131652.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131652.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 16:40:21]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ mindispower]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Ignition—Mysterious Inconsistent Failure to Start</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have paid the mechanic twice to resolve a problem that keeps occurring, albeit it is inconsistently manifested: I turn the key and nothing happens. No noise of any kind. It is as if the battery was totally dead. But it is not. All of the electric systems work just fine.<br/> <br/> Despite going against what I felt the problem was, the mechanic replaced the battery. Still had the problem a couple days later. <br/> <br/> Next time, he bypassed the sensor on the clutch (this is on a '03 Chev S10, red (does that help? ;-) Seemed to do the trick, for a couple days.<br/> <br/> Went back the third time and he replaced the wiring (ignition) harness in the steering column. (It was the next least expensive part to replace). From the beginning he insisted that it COULD be the starter--very costly.<br/> <br/> Well, for a couple weeks I thought that did the trick. Again, sometimes it will not start when I first turn the key.<br/> <br/> I don't know if this is related or not, but when it won't start, I jiggle the shifter, sometimes change gears, and then it starts. Coincidence or related?<br/> <br/> I don't want to spend another $300-400 if it is not necessary, of course.<br/> <br/> What else could it be? What else can I do? Am ready for a second opinion. Thought I would start here.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131651.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131651.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 16:37:36]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ ekanet]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Check Engine light - '93 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ For the past year or so the check engine light comes on while driving.  Not every time.  The light then stays on until I turn the car off.  This is not dependent on temperature, speed, time of day, etc.  What I think is related is the electrical load on the car.  I can pretty reliably make the light come on by leaving the rear defrost on for 5 minutes or so.  Sometimes cranking up the volume on my stereo (with 400w amp) will also do it.  The error code (and what the internet tells me it means) is:<br/> <br/> 43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time<br/> OR<br/> 43 Cylinder misfire<br/> OR<br/> 43 Problem in power module to logic module interface <br/> <br/> The car is not misfiring.  I had the auto parts store check the alternator.  They said I have a bad diode, but the alternator is still regulating the voltage well.  The battery is new and putting out appropriate I've checked the ignition coil resistance - all coils are within specs.  The car recently got new plugs and wires. There are never any other error codes (I check periodically to make sure nothing new is going on).  I am at a loss on where to look next.  Any ideas?  Thanks.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131650.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131650.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 16:27:19]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ heifer03]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Used Cars That Get 40mpg plus...</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I'm looking for a used economy car that gets over 40mpg. I've found a Dodge Colt that gets 50+mpg. What else is out there?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131649.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131649.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 15:58:06]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ pierced_pogo]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>weird Kia behavior</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ This car runs like a top most of the time. But lately it will sudenly lose power (press the pedal, no go), the speedometer goes nuts jumping from 0 to 50/60 and back, and the check engine light goes on. So far, the dealership hasn't been able to figure out what's going on. so what's going on? ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131648.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131648.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 14:32:39]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ ke6tdy]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Snow Tires</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Last week Tom & Ray talked to a woman who had moved to Toronto and was new to snow driving. They said get steel wheels and mount snows--her car had alloy wheels. This was on the radio as I left my tire place where they had just mounted snow tires on my Subaru alloy wheels. What's the reason for steel wheels? Secondly, my tire guy said 3 of 4 of my wheels were missing the center cap. I thought he meant the wheel covers, but they're ok. He had said it was  difficult getting them balanced. Anyone know what this means? thanks.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131647.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2131647.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 6 Nov 2009 13:59:54]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Chikey]]></author>
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