http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalkforums/list.page Public Action http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058212.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058212.page GMT I'm about to pick up a 2000 Subaru Outback after not needing to own a car for several years living and working in a major metropolitan area. What regular maintenance would you perform on the vehicle and when?

Sincerely appreciate your advice - I like to take good care of my gear : ) I kept a 7 year old Volvo 240 I bought in college in great working condition for many years.

This is a list I put together with some posters on Edmunds and the garage that inspected the car for me. Is there anything you would add? How much do you think all the below should cost if done by a good independent garage? One person estimated all the below costing about $1000.

LIST (any used car just bought should get the following, unless you know they were done within the last 3-6 months):

Coolant drain/fill
ATF (Automatic Trans Fluid)/Trans drain/fill
Front +Rear Diffy fluid drain/fill
Replace Spark Plugs (unless it's under 100k, and had platinums from factory)
Replace Spark Plug Wires (if applicable)
Brake Fluid Flush and Change
Brake Pads (Rotors if needed)
Fuel system flush – could be done with $4-5 bottle of fuel system cleaner
Power steering fluid drain/fill if fluid is discolored
Replace Tires if necessary
]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058211.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058211.page GMT
I may purchase a 2000 Subaru Outback and it turns out on inspection that the rear and front tires were not matched for tread type or tread wear, and no more than a 2/32 difference is recommended in tire size/tread, and all tires should be matched for tread. So I will have to replace them. Planning to drive the car on the W Coast in N California after relocating now from the NE, mostly for drives of 5 to 45 min during the work week, and occasional weekend trips, including ski trips to the mountains in winter. I’m looking for a top quality all-season tire that will handle well in summer and winter conditions.

I’d sincerely appreciate your advice as I’m very careful about tires every since I bought my first car in college, a 7 year old Volvo, which had tires that checked out well enough, but in a medium rain storm, driving 30 mph on a Cliffside with one lane in each direction, with no sudden acceleration or steering moves, the car fishtailed 180 degrees, and I was lucky to “land” the car in my lane close to the inside of the road against the mountain. Some oil leaking down from a town above the road may have caused the road to be slick, but as soon as I put brand new top end all season tires on the car, it handled 10x better and safer. Never experienced that kind of slippage again.

In response to this question on Yahoo Answers, this poster below who owns 2 subarus recommended Yokohama Avid TRZ’s http://www...l=AVID+TRZ . I checked the reviews on Tirerack and the TRZs have an average overall rating of 8.52 out of 737 reviews, which is very good.
http://www...tireMake=- - - Yokohama&tireModel=AVID+TRZ&tirePageLocQty=&commentStatus=P
He was negative on Michelin for value and quick wear:

“I'm not sure if they're available in Australia, but I ran Yokohama Avid TRZ's on my 98 Outback.. they have a 700 tread wear rating, and the rain/ snow traction is excellent (I know not a lot of powder down there, but in a sudden downpour, they are amazing).. I drive mostly on-road, over 60 km one-way to work, and have taken them off road on occasion.. really surprising for an all season car tire. From my experience here stateside, Michelin is way overpriced, and the treads are too soft to get any real life out of; they do handle well though. Had nothing but bad experiences with Pirellis, may be just me. I'm currently running Dunlop Dirrezas on my 07 WRX.. and they have been wonderful so far. Stick like glue, and good in the rain. They are a summer- only tire though” * 4 weeks ago Source(s): 17 years in the repair trade, employed with a national tire distributor; owner of two Subarus.

I spoke with Tirerack.com and these 2 tires were their top picks for performance + value for all-season tires for the 2000 Subaru Outback Ltd Wagon:

Bridgestone Turanza Serenity 225/60R16 $126 H sped rated - rated for 70,000 miles, supposed to offer just a little more responsive handling and a drop quieter ride than the Yokohama Avid TRZ, thanks to the stiffer tire, rated as a grand touring tire. There are fewer reviews for this than for the Yokohama Avid TRZ, but it appears well rated, though winter/snow ratings appear a little lower than the Yokohama Avid TRZ. Rated to 130 mph (as if I'd drive a 2000 Subaru Outback even close to that speed). Someone on Edmunds mentioned: “The Serenity has replaced the Turanza LS series which for several years was the top tire on the Tirerack reviews for whatever category they were in.(do not confuse the Turanza LS with the ELs which are often OEM and suck) whether the Serenity is as good as its predecessor remains to be seen.”

Yokohama Avid TRZ 225/60R16 $94 T speed rated4/ - rated for 80,000 miles - rated as a touring tire. Very large number of ratings and very highly rated, both for summer and winter conditions. Considered an excellent mix of quality and value. The Yokohama Avid TRZ also got a very good review in Yahoo Answers.

I have to decide in 2 days (by Monday evening) in order to take advantage of a $75 rebate for four Bridgestone Turanza Serenity Tires, if I want them. The Bridgestone rebate brings the cost of a set of 4 Bridgestone Turanza Serenity very close to the cost of a set of Yokohama Avid TRZs.

I'd sincerely appreciate your advice – I’ll be a first time Subaru owner and haven't had to keep a car for a few years now, so haven't bought tires in years.
]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058210.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058210.page GMT ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058209.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058209.page GMT lately to my '97 Honda Civic
when I apply the breaks when
this car is traveling at more
than 40 mph. What might be
causing this problem? ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058011.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058011.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058010.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058010.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058009.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1058009.page GMT
I went to the Saab dealership to see what was wrong with the key. I figured that maybe the battery went out.

The service manager wanted to charge me $75 for a diagnostics test on the key. And he told me that if ultimately we had to replace the key, that it would cost me $300.

I told him to forget it. It just seems like way too much money to fix or replace a key.

Outside of paying the $75 and potentially $300, what options do I have?]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057810.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057810.page GMT
Yesterday I went from Wash. DC to Philadelphia PA in my sister-in-law's Toyota Avelon. Her car has an MPG meter that indicates average MPG and resets every time the car resets. She filled up at a cheap independant station before we left. We went up and half way back averaging 21-22 MPG on the interstate, making several food and rest stops. She drove up and I drove back. We both got virtually the same milage even though I drive a little faster. I thought the car was a little thirsty, but it's a pretty big sedan with four passengers and a full trunk. Anyway, I stopped about halfway back and refilled the tank with regular 87 octane at a Sunoco. It was down to 1/8th of a tank. When we got back out on the highway the MPG immediately went to 27 MPG and climbed to 29 MPG by the time we got back to DC city limits.

Just goes to show the independent stations sometimes get batches of inferior gas.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057809.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057809.page GMT
My brother's 2000 Toyota gearshift broke while he parked. He was having trouble shifting it lately (sticking in Park) and then today, he said it made a noise and then was lose in the holder, not shifting gears. Luckily it is in park and parked legally. Can anyone offer any experience on this type of repair? Will it be expensive? Would he have to go to a dealer for this?

Thanks
Paula in Skokie, IL ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057609.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057609.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057413.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057413.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057412.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057412.page GMT
At times when I apply the brakes, I get a pulsing in wheels. It gets worse at highway speeds -- it triggers a shimmy in the front wheels that shakes the steering wheel and the front-end of the car.

I put new (inexpensive) rotors on the car a year ago, and new pads on a month ago.

I suspect the rotors are warped. Or -- it is possible the calipers are sticky. When I bought the car, ONE of the two calipers was extended almost entirely, and had ground the rotor to paper-thin.

Ideas?]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057411.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057411.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057410.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057410.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057409.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057409.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057209.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057209.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057011.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057011.page GMT
I took my car to a local shop recently and they recommended changing the harmonic balancer, but after doing some reading about what happens when the harmonic balancer goes bad, noisy belts didn't come up as a symptom.

I have a suspicion that the problem is the generator since a) I've replaced the battery twice in less than three years, b) starting the car may strain the battery enough that the generator produces greater resistance causing the belt to slip, and c) I have have a cigarette lighter power splitter with a power indicator on it that shows low when the belts are making a lot of noise.

Is it possible that the harmonic balancer is the cause of my noise or could it be my suspicion that the generator is not working as it should? Is there a way I can test either one of these theories without replacing parts?

Thanks]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057010.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057010.page GMT Sent them email but they don't seem to care about accuracy.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057009.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1057009.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056810.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056810.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056809.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056809.page GMT
Thanks,
]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056616.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056616.page GMT
I have been changing according to severe condition in the manual.

I had to replace the radiator and the Peak coolant states
- LongLife
- 5yr 150k miles
http://www...glife.html

So my question is how often should i change the coolant?

Thanks]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056615.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056615.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056614.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056614.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056613.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056613.page GMT I bought a 1965 Chevelle Malibu years ago, I was the second owner. The original owner had a vinyl-look top put on it which was I believe fiberglass. It looked great. Did need a coat of mop 'n glow occaisionally to keep it shiney, but other than that it required little. I have never seen another one, or found anyone in the business who might do that kind of work.Have you ever seen or heard of this? V-topless in Arnold. ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056612.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056612.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056611.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056611.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056610.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056610.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056609.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056609.page GMT One mecanic told me that it is the left front axle and another suggested to change the spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. Now I am confuse. Can you hep me. Do you think this can happen because the struts and coil springs were badly install. Does it has to do with the axle or CV joints. I will really appreciate your help if you can help me. Do you have any idea what it can be.
]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056411.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056411.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056410.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056410.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056212.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056212.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056211.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056211.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056210.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056210.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056209.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056209.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056010.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056010.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056009.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1056009.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055810.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055810.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055809.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055809.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055609.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055609.page GMT device? Is this yet another scam, or does this product actually increase gas mileage?]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055411.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055411.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055410.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055410.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055409.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055409.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055209.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055209.page GMT Many thanks]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055010.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055010.page GMT
at 10,000 miles, the valve seals, head set, oil strainer, and related parts were replaced (under warranty)

at 20,000 miles, the transmission was replaced with a rebuilt (warranty - car was shifting weird)

at 49,000 miles (last week), two wheel speed sensors and the vehicle speed sensor on the tranny blew, and the mechanic (indy) said remaining two sensors were spewing out odd data, and should be replaced

Along the way, very un-Toyota things have happened - windshield washer nozzle failed, sliding doors sticking, clock crapping out and then remerging - it seems (to me) that this car has had an unusual number of "big" repairs in a very short life - time to sell and move on, or ignore the "under warranty" work b/c it did not cost, and shrug the sensors off as the only extraordinary work I've paid for in the years I've owned the car?

Your thoughts, insight, experiences will be of assistance, and appreciated - thank you

]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055009.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1055009.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1054809.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1054809.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1054610.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1054610.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1054609.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1054609.page GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1054411.page http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1054411.page GMT