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		<title><![CDATA[cartalk discussions]]></title>
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		<description><![CDATA[The newest discussed for "cartalk"]]></description>
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				<title>Sloppy 2nd-3rd Transition</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Tonight when I was driving home I noticed that the engine raced just a little bit (50 RPM or so) between 2nd and 3rd.  Then the transmission shifted hard with a nice "thud" noise.<br/> <br/> I check the trans fluid regularly, and it was just changed a few months ago.  The fluid is bright red, does not smell burned, and does not have metal abrasives in it.  <br/> <br/> Is the transmssion going to die a slow and painful death at this point?  I read that sticking valves and solenoids going bad can also cause this to happen.  <br/> <br/> No problems shifting through the other gears.  Should I get this thing to a technician before its too late? Please and thanks.<br/> <br/> jmw ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125039.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 4 Jul 2009 01:23:00]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Jeffmw05]]></author>
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				<title>Hood latch</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I own a 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera.  Tonight I was trying to go to work, when I started to car the battery died on me.  Then the hood would not open at all.  So my question is, how hard is it to fix a hood latch when the hood will not open at all?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 4 Jul 2009 01:09:18]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ darainey]]></author>
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				<title>CD Player</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Does anyone know how to repair or remove the CD player in the console of a 1997 Ford Explorer?<br/> I tried cleaning it with a CD cleaner disc and no response.<br/> Help is appreciated!!!]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125036.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 23:38:46]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ 6liter]]></author>
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				<title>Hey, PJSecker</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ where did you go with your lockup converter??  I want to know what the outcome was.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125035.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 23:11:24]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ EllyEllis]]></author>
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				<title>Tires - Safety Question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I've owned my 69 Dodge Dart four months now. It has good condition looking Road Hugger G/T radials on it. Hardly any tread wear. Here is the thing. The fronts were manufactured in 1999; rears 2000. I don't know how many miles are on the tires. I've been reading up about "old" tires and how unsafe they may be although looking to be "good" tires. I live in WA state. The car was garaged and still is. Weather can be extreme cold to extreme heat. Mostly rainy though, mid temps. Should I replace all the tires? Thanks. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 23:04:57]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ dodgeguy]]></author>
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				<title>Subaru Headgasket</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2003 Forester with less than 60,000 miles.  It overheated once recently and then I took it in, early, for the 60,000 mile service.  The dealership told me that the left rear headgasket is leaking oil.  Once in a while, I smell hot oil.  Otherwise, the car now seems to run fine.  What should I do, if anything?  Thanks.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125033.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 22:33:58]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ tycrist]]></author>
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				<title>Found squeak/rattle </title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Maybe this will help someone.  09 civic automatic 3400 miles.  For the past 300 miles I heard a squeak and rattle from front passenger side only while moving.  Dealer couldn't hear it.  Today I moved the fender up and down like checking for worn shocks/struts.  Then drove around 10 miles and no more noise.  Hopefully it'll last.  ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125032.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 22:30:31]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ sigma693]]></author>
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				<title>E-Motor magazine</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Anybody read Motor magazine? Really good up to date technical articles. I had to pay for my e-version (it comes in my e-mail)My question do you think it is some kind of violation to post links to the articles?. There probably is some kind of identifyier in the hyperlink that identifies me. I sure think people would like to read the articles. Good one this month about what makes 02 sensors go bad and I got my question answered about what new tech FIAT is bringing to Chrysler.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125031.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 22:21:37]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ oldschool]]></author>
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				<title>2002 Saturn BCM Availability</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Hi,<br/> <br/> I took my 2002 Saturn L200 today to the dealer because the "security" idiot light was on. Other symptoms were that the warning alert would keep sounding, the car would not come out of Park, and most of the gauges didn't work.<br/> <br/> The dealer said the Body Control Module (aka BCM) was bad and it was nothing $500 couldn't solve... except the dealer couldn't find one. I don't mean they didn't have one in inventory, the service manager couldn't find one anywhere in the country. He said he would call to find out the availability of the part, but he was concerned that it was no longer available.<br/> <br/> So... if that can't be replaced, what options do I have short of junking the car and getting something else?<br/> <br/> Also, I seem to recall that car manufacturers are required to maintain a parts inventory for a certain period of time. Is this correct and, if it is, how long?<br/> <br/> Thanks, George]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125030.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 22:19:13]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ yolland]]></author>
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				<title>loosing power on hills</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a Buick La Saber 1997, used, new to me.  I was driving up a long hill and it started slowing down without change in pedal pressure.  I mean a lot.  I had to pull off the highway.  I started again it seemed fine, then again.  I had to punch it to get it to kick in and go.  Then the engine light came on.  Am I screwed?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 21:30:09]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ wookie94588]]></author>
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				<title>My Heap of an S-10 </title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2000 Chevy S-10 V6 Automatic I believe it's a 4.3L engine. <br/> <br/> it's been running great has 126K miles and I had a dealership tune up done at 98K miles been a very good vehicle. <br/> <br/> lately however the brakes sound like someone stuck another disc in between the pads and the original rotors. constant grinding noise. as soon as I hit the breaks it goes away then comes back. also the break peddle vibrates only when braking hard downhill. I realize the breaks need to be changed is there any chance it's just the pads or should I be saving for calipers and rotors. <br/> <br/> 2. there is a small coolant leak in the area of like 1 Gallon over 3-4K miles so not much but the oil change place was pretty sure it's the water pump I am wondering if that's something someone who is handy but inexperienced should try would buying a repair manual or spending the money on having someone else do it right be more beneficial <br/> <br/> 3. the coolant temp sensor only moves up to 1/4 point where it should be at 1/2 which is normal I am guessing it might either have something to do with the thermostat going out which may or may not explain why I also get very mediocre air conditioning. or might it just be a symptom of the coolant leak. It hasn't overheat during the course of the past months it's been doing this but I would hate for the gauge to be lying to me and it do that without me every knowing it. <br/> <br/> any and all answers or advice would be appreciated I'm a poor college student so any of this I can end up doing myself without ruining anything I need to do to save money and there is a parts store within walking distance <br/> <br/> Thanks ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125028.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 21:16:25]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ James5104]]></author>
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				<title>Reset ABS light?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Just got my 06 Honda civic back from the shop where I had both front wheel bearings replaced.  On the way home I noticed that the ABS light was on.  Tomorrow is the 4th and I'm leaving for a weeks vacation on the 5th so I'm hoping things just need to be reset.  Is there a way to reset this myself and avoid having to take the car back into the shop?  If I do perform a reset and there actually is a problem will the light come back on?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 20:58:41]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ JHandy]]></author>
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				<title>No Power Going Up Hills</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have 97 Toyota Paseo - manual transmission.  Engine light came on a little while ago, around the time I forgot to put the gas lid on before driving about a mile.  Just including that detail in case it's related, my concern is about a month after that, it's now having problems going uphill.  I live in Seattle, and my commute to work has some pretty intense hills, and when the engine revs and leaves an order (like something might be burning).  It doesn't even begin to overheat.  It also seems to take a little longer to get to faster speeds (i.e., merging on to the highway). ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125026.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 19:43:41]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ jlmul14]]></author>
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				<title>engine life</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ a v6 engine turns at 2000rpm at 70mph,a 4cyl turns at 2500-3000rpm,a 25-30% increase.after 100000 miles the 4cyl engines life will be less than a v6.a 4cyl also downshifts on small hills.a v6 should last longer,is this correct?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 19:35:22]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ jimhf38]]></author>
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				<title>does my 1990 plymouth sundance think its a rabbit?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ when ever my car worms up and goes several miles it no longer wants to accelerate. i hit the gas and it just cuts back and then goes for a millisecond then cuts back again in rapid susetion (wash rinse repeat). if you then keep pussing it it will just cut off when you hit the gas and might start up again but might need a cooldown period before it will. i do not know the history of this car i just bought it about two months ago. can anybody tell me what could be doing this? it just got a full tune up cap and button included, yes it was doing this before the tune up!  ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125024.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 17:52:43]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ mamalizy18]]></author>
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				<title>'98 Buick LeSabre suddenly lost all coolant</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ What are the symptoms of of a blown head gasket versus a bad plastic intake manifold?  The car is expelling lots of steam out the exhaust. It only ran hot for a few blocks before it was shut down.  ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125023.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 17:48:09]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ nowmaybe]]></author>
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				<title>1994 Toyota Corolla Transmission cut out</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 1994 Toyota Corolla wagon.  For the last 6 months the transmission has periodically cut out while I am driving for 10 to 20 seconds.  I took it to the Toyota dealer and he test drove it for almost an hour with no problems.  It happens infrequently.  Then recently it happened again and the speedometer also cut out and went to zero.  I was able to shift into a lower gear and drive that way for a minute or so.  Then the speedometer cut back in and I was able to shift into Drive and all was well.  I took it back to the dealer who did another test drive and then dropped the transmission to check for gunk or build up in the trans oil filter.  None was found.  He reinstalled the trans pan with a new gasket and topped off the fluid.  He then did another test drive and all was still normal.  The mechanic is stymied and can't think of anything that it can be.  Any suggestions?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125022.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 17:43:02]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ toyota1994]]></author>
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				<title>great advice</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I just want to thank all the "guys" who responded to my question about the check engine light on my 01 VW Beetle.  I ended up finding an independent VW repairman only 25 minutes from my home thanks to a suggestion from this website, had the  MAF and a hose replaced (as suggested by another responder) and viola'!  No engine light and she's running great!  Thanks SO much for the time and effort to help!<br/> <br/> Leslie]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125021.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 17:07:28]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ luckyleslie]]></author>
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				<title>Timing belts (again)</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 97 Nisson Maxima and it just passed 150K miles.  I bought it new in '97.   It runs great and I have never replaced the timing belt.  That was on the recommendation of a mechanic who owned several Maximas (Maximae?).  He told me that this was one of the best engines ever made and that timing belt replacement was not necessary. As it passed 150K,  I decided that I can't dispute his engine assessment but several friends say I am way over my limit on luck re the belt.  One friend in particular sends me e-mails on why this non-action was not very smart.   Can these belts last forever?  Am I pushing my luck?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125020.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 17:00:44]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ RC45387]]></author>
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				<title>New to me 95 Lumina, lots of probs.</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I bought this car used from my trusted mechanic.  Originally the AC wasn't working, and after a couple different things they put in two different compressors and it was working.  These are its current problems.  Please work with me as I have no experience with how to fix cars, but I do feel like I have the worst luck with cars.<br/> Problem 1. The AC isn't working, again.  It only worked for about a month after this second compressor was put in.<br/> Problem 2.  Once the gas tank is below half a tank the needle will go up and down on the gas gauge as I accelerate, decellerate. <br/> Problem 3. And this one just started lately, the car will vibrate, not much but enough to make me nervous that I am going to stall at any moment. <br/> Problem 4. The car will stall.  It happened one time on a regular road, it stalled, restarted, then lost power again, and after about a minute it restarted again. Another time it lost power on the highway.  It didn't end up actually stalling, but I kept pressing the gas and it just kept losing more and more speed, until after a couple of seconds I had to pull over because I thought it was dying, but just as I pulled over, it regained power again.  <br/> Problem 5.  I took it in for an oil change today and it stalled three times (after vibrating all the way there) trying to get it into the oil change bay.  The guy actually suggested I not get an oil change and take the car to my mechanic for a look over and an oil change.  In the meantime, he did say that the fluids all looked fine and said that the problem could be 101 different things. No check engine light is on. <br/> Please help, I am clueless.  I appreciate any advice or suggesions.  Like I said, I just bought this car in April (its now early July) and I am terribly afraid that I bought a big old lemon. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 16:47:37]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ christinetenezaca]]></author>
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				<title>Check Engine Light was going on but stopped</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2002 Chevy Prizm (aka Toyota Corolla). A couple of weeks the Check Engine was staying on, but after 2 weeks, it stopped going on. It stills goes on briefly when I start the engine, as is normal.<br/> <br/> I had it checked out at Sears. They put it on the computer and could not get a reading. They said it would take an IQ over 50 to figure it out, so I should take it elsewhere, preferably the dealer.<br/> <br/> I kept failing to get to the dealer early enough in the morning for them to accept my car for the day.<br/> <br/> Now it is back to normal. Can I just forget about it now? Is this just something that happens and means nothing, except perhaps the limitations of Check Engine lights?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125018.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 15:35:26]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ dertolleMensch]]></author>
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				<title>Cabin Air Filter</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ During my annual NY State Inspection, Goodyear informed me that my Cabin Air Filter on my Honda CR-V needed replacing. The estimate for the part and installation (and tax) was $80. I am not a "car gal," but I can follow clear instructions. Is this a part I can purchase and replace on my own? I don't even know where one accesses it. If it is too complicated, does this estimate seem reasonable? Should I also be wary because Goodyear ALWAYS finds some additional work they think needs to be done? Granted, it's usually new wiper blades or some other relatively inexpensive thing. ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125017.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 14:58:03]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ DogsNotHusbands]]></author>
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				<title>Sun Shade Use</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Is it better to use a sun shade to protect the interior of a car or not. If you park all day in a sunny location where the temperatures reach the high 90's does it make a difference?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125016.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125016.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 14:20:43]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ catherinesoria]]></author>
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				<title>Car Lights Signal</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ My sister has a 2000 Honda Civic LS. The sound signal that notifies you if you leave the lights on inadvertently has died Despite being very careful she have more than once come out to a dead battery. Her usually excellent Honda dealer says they don't know how to repair or replace it. Is there no solution?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125015.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 13:49:10]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ mfridecky]]></author>
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				<title>Battery not staying charged...</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 1996 Toyota Celica, and have had trouble maintaining my battery charge.  If I do not drive the car for 8 days, I have to recharge the battery.  I have a 1200 watt amplifier in the trunk.  Could this be draining my battery.  I've been told that I need to get a trickler battery charger or battery tender that can stay connected to the battery to boast the charge, or a capacitor for the amp.  Does anyone have any experience with the battery chargers/tenders?  Are they safe.  What do you all recommend?  Thanks]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125014.page</guid>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 13:39:37]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ katrice]]></author>
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				<title>Honda Civic exhaust systems</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I've replaced the exhaust system on my '96 Civic three times, and the exhaust pipe rusted through and broke yet again last week.  It seems to break at different points of the piping each time.  I don't know whether the replacement parts that were installed were Honda parts - the repairs were done at a local muffler place and twice at a CarX.  Is there a reason I keep having to repair this, or am I just unlucky?  Also, is there a difference between factory Honda parts and off-brand parts, at least so far as exhaust systems go?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 13:32:49]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ garrattadam]]></author>
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				<title>old gas removal</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 1986 Dodge Ram 250 Van with 42,140 original miles on it.  It has been sitting for several years.  I need to remove the old gas.  I noticed there is a rubber hose on the tank filler pipe. Can I rmove this hose to drain the gas?  How easy would it be to replace?  special hose, glued on?  <br/> I also need to replace the belts.  I have sprayed the bolts and nuts, any other suggestions?<br/> This is a wheel chair van with a lift.  It as an Ez lock to hold a chair.  I no loner have a use for the vehicle.  It is not fitted for a handicapped driver.  I would like to sell it to some who needs it. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 13:25:44]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ camerajoe]]></author>
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				<title>2002 Dakota interior leaking</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a Dakota, and the cab leaks. I find a lot of water standing, mostly on the right side, thoroughly soaking the carpet. i pulled off the track covering the joint of the carpet and doorway, and lots of standing water. Air conditioner leak? seems like a lot of water for that. Wonder if this is a common problem for dakotas. Suggestions? Thanks.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125011.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125011.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 12:57:19]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ mbayles]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Chevy Avalanche 2003</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Just put the window down on the passengers side and will not come back up. It had been running slow.  Blown fuse? New motor?  Any one have problem with this model doing this?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125010.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125010.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 12:46:22]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ cwboyz235]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>Black smoke</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have black smoke coming out of my muffler.. What am I burning?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125009.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125009.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 12:39:01]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ jbacon]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>expensive tune up</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2007 chevy aveo due for a 60k tune up.  The dealer wanted $140 for spark plugs and wires. Is there any unusual issue that would inspire me to pay that much when I can get parts much cheaper at the local parts store, or is changing plugs and wires as simple as I would expect? Thanks for input.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125008.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125008.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 12:29:02]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ chevyaveo2007]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>ancient Subaru</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ We have a 25 year old Subraru that needs a climate control unit. Our local mechanic has not been able to find one.  It is a great old car that still gets 25 mpg but is not fun to drive in the summer or winter.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125007.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125007.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 11:49:58]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ thejbvd]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Chevy S10 Transfer Case 4wd Indicator Light</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Hello. '95 Chevy S10 4.3 V6 4x4, 179,000 miles. I just had a clutch job done due to the throwout bearing breaking. Got it back and it works great except the 4wd indicator display doesn't work now. I had the work done out of state, it will be a hassle to take it back for this so I thought I'd try fixing it myself first. Called the mechanic for info and he just said he'd have to look at it.<br/> <br/> It is a manual trans with the 4wd shifter on the floor next to the stick shift in the same console. It has a display behind the console that lights up with the mode indicator and a diagram of the drive train that lights up. None of the lights are on in the display, so it's like there's no power going to it.<br/> <br/> I peeked under the console and it looks like everything is plugged in, fuse is good also. Checked all the switches I could find on the drive train and can't see anything disconnected. It has a 4wd indicator lamp switch on the transfer case and another on the front differential. I'm thinking maybe one of these switches went bad, don't know what else to look at. I don't know if I should replace the transfer case switch or the differential switch or both, don't know what else to look at. The switches look easy to replace. <br/> <br/> Oh, the 4wd still works fine otherwise, just no display. Thanks for any suggestions.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125006.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125006.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 10:25:11]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ ChevyBlues]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Car turns over but won't start</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I've got a 2001 Nissan Maxima. Yesterday I go out to start it and it turns over fine, but it won't start. I don't think it's the fuel pump cause I can smell gas. This car has a coil on each of the six plugs, so if it was a coil won't at least the five working cylinders get it started? ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125005.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125005.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 10:04:35]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Maximaum Frustration]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>VIBRATION!</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ My daughter has a 2000 Ford Focus Automatic with about 50k miles on it.<br/> <br/> When it is cold, there is a relatively loud vibration when it is in Park, Reverse, to a lesser degree Neutral, but it goes away when in Drive.  Once the vehicle warms up, nothing in any "gear".<br/> <br/> I have checked the tranny fluid, and that's apparently not the issue.<br/> <br/> Any ideas?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125004.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125004.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 09:55:28]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ raybark]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>02 VW Passat wagon with brake problem</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ To make a long story short, after 2 years of tentative repair (I don't want to list the parts changed so far) the cause for the vibration at highway speed is now within the rear passenger brake not completing disengaging at times. The brake pads were just replaced and the rotor resurfaced, with no out of ordinary anomaly reported. The mechanic now wants to change the master cylinder, but since it is only one of the brake that remain engage I don't think is a solution.<br/> Does anybody have any suggestion?<br/> Thx.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125003.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125003.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 09:15:25]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ unimog]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>Install new GM Turnkey motor </title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Gentlemen,<br/> <br/> I own a 1983 Chevrolet K10 Scottsdale 1/2 ton pick up.  This truck still has the original 305 c.i. motor and well, I feel that it is time to replace the engine..it is  leaking oil and smokes.  <br/> <br/> I've been looking into a "GM turn-key package" the the prices do not seem too steep.  I do not personally know any mechanics that can install this engine.  I really hope that you guys will be able to please recommend a good mechanic in my area (Austin, Texas) that could do this job.  Many thanks!!<br/> <br/> I look forward to your reply.<br/> <br/> Respectfully,<br/> <br/> Paul<br/> US Army-Retired]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125002.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125002.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 09:00:04]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Tanker Reyes]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Taurus electrical drain, unknown fan (?) running continuously</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I had not driven my 1997 Taurus SHO V-8 in a week.  I was surprised to find the nearly new battery was dead.  Immediately upon hooking up the jumper cables I could hear what sounded like a fan running under the hood. I also hear a loud hissing sound that is caused by whatever the "fan" noise is. This is without the engine running, so it's not manifold vacuum. The noise keeps going after it starts.  It's just muffled by the engine noise. When I disconnect the jumper, it spools down to nothing over a second or two like a fan coming to a stop. The noise is barely hearable inside the car, and no air is coming out any vents inside.  The heat/AC is turned off.  The noise remains when I switch the A/C on. I'm pretty sure it's not part of that system.  I've never heard this noise before. It seems to be coming from the area under the power brake booster, but the booster has no long lasting vacuum when the engine is off, and this will apparently  go on as long as the battery is up.  I've felt around under the booster, but can't put my hand on anything that makes a difference or feel any vibration. It's a bit tight for space with that big V-8 in there. <br/> <br/> What's going on?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125001.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125001.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 08:47:38]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ nowmaybe]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Brake Adjusting Process</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I adjust the brakes on my 91 Toyota Corolla by using the parking brake lever. Would this same procedure apply to an 05 Camry? I don't have access to the manual and hoped someone here on the board would know. ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125000.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2125000.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 06:05:52]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ casper]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>seat placement</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I was wondering is it possible to adjust a seat or move it back if you have long legs without sacrificing safety and or protection in the event of an accident.  I need to move the seat back about 6 to 8 inches????  I teach drivers education and I'm 6'6'' tall and ride in cars for hours and am tired of being cramped.  Any thoughts??]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124999.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124999.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 02:47:49]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ northstar5]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>3.8 waterpump issue on Chrysler</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2000 Town and Country with a 3.8.  I have been hearing unpleasant sounds from under the hood and thought it was the AC compressor clutch.  The serpentine belt is torn up, the pulley on the front of the water pump is sitting crooked and coolant is pouring out.  <br/> <br/> How hard is this thing to change.  The van is on a parking lot 25 miles from home.  Would I be crazy to try it to avoid having to call the tow guy?   ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124998.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124998.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 00:47:03]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ TandCx2]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>no crank 95 maxGXE</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Bought this car about 2 weeks ago. No symptoms prior. <br/> <br/> bat is about 8 months old.<br/> Headlights are on with but slightly dim.<br/> Hook a jumper start to it and the alarm goes off.<br/> Headlights at normal intensity with jumpstarter on.<br/> <br/> Pull the fuse for the alarm and all the correct inst panel lights are lit but no crank.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124997.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124997.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, 3 Jul 2009 00:36:58]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ brokemaxownr]]></author>
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			<item>
				<title>strange noises from under the car</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Last night, I took my dogs to the dog park.  The car was fine on the way over.  Upon exiting the park, I heard a low pitched squeal. I opened the windows to hear it better, and it seemed to be coming from under the car.  And there was also sound like something loose and rotating or flapping around.  At first I wondered if the brakes were squeeling, but when I removed my foot from the brakes, the squeeling continued.  I pulled over, to see if it was a tire issue, since the other noise felt like something flapping around, but could see nothing.  I drove on down the road a little bit, unsure whether I should be driving, or whether something was going to fall off.  Then abruptly, the squeal stopped.  The flapping stopped. I made it all the way home.  Today I did not hear a squeal, but I think I heard some flapping.  The car is a 2004 Acura TSX and I haven't really had any problems to speak of.  I take good care of it.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124996.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124996.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 2 Jul 2009 23:00:13]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ kcsandy]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Note to Parents for Teens Driving</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Just to reiterate a safety situation. One of my friends children (teenager) was driving a sports car around town and basically ran into a parked truck on the side of the road. Long story short, they was texting and looked up while going at least 50 MPH and hit the parked vehicle dead on. The car was totalled. The person driving was basically unhurt. This is just a reminder of a problem with driving and using a cell phone (kids and adults alike). So, we all need to think twice before doing this activity while driving. This occurred on a lightly travelled country road in Kentucky. Imagine if it was during rush hour on a major highway. Others would suffer an accident that can be avoided. thanks ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124995.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124995.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 2 Jul 2009 22:25:25]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ oilman]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>flooded car</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ my car was caugut in a flood, how do i get the smell out?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124993.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124993.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 2 Jul 2009 20:41:26]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ chytown1]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>dust</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2001 Chevy Blazer that I just got about seven months ago.Recently whenever I turn on the heater dust comes blowing out along with cold air. I changed out the air filter but that didnt fix the problem.Is there something wrong with my car or is it just me? ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124992.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124992.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 2 Jul 2009 20:41:10]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Addygirl]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title> automatic transmission slip,</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ check engine light on,auto trans.3sp slips up shifting from 2nd. 1997 jeep wrangler code reads 37 on od part throttle unlock circuit open or short detected. would a torque converter clutch solenoid cause this problem? notce hood seemed hotter than normal making me think the converter may be heating up. fluid level ok filter been changed no leaks. thanks]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124991.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124991.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 2 Jul 2009 20:10:18]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ mohawk]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Transmission</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ My car won't go into 1st and 2nd gear but it will go into 3rd and up. It just happened all of a sudden. What is wrong??]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124990.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124990.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 2 Jul 2009 19:39:11]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ jess_lmc]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>Toyota RAV4 oil. Ripped off?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2008 Toyota RAV4, V6 4x4.<br/> I took it into the dealer for an oil and filter change on 1 July 09. I supplied a carton of 6 qts of Mobile 1 and a filter element which I got from the dealer parts dept. I had the work order note the oil & filter element in the rear of the car.<br/> <br/> The glove box book quotes the 3.5 L V6 engine oil capacity as 6.1 liter or 6.4 qt (P430.) (actually 6.1 L = 6.45 qt at .946 L/qt)<br/> I got the car back & checked the oil after the car had sat overnight on a flat surface. The oil  level was ABOVE the second hole on the dip stick indicating a slight overfill. If they had used the 6 qts of Mobile 1, the dipstick should have indicated .45 qt LOW should it not?<br/> <br/> So what’s going on? They probably changed the oil with the engine hot so was there a half a qt or so oil hidden in the hot engine that did not drain? Is the dipstick incorrect?<br/> <br/> Or did they not read the work order & just fill with “Toyota oil” per normal. Then someone read the work order, said “Oh darn” and took the case of Mobile One home with them?<br/> <br/> Neither the empty carton nor the empty oil bottles were returned to me.<br/> ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124989.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124989.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 2 Jul 2009 19:13:43]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ oldfart666]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>high idle</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ i have a 2000 dodge durango that will idle up on its own what might be the cause? thanks]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124988.page</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/2124988.page</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 2 Jul 2009 19:05:59]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ kalley]]></author>
			</item>
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