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		<title><![CDATA[Latest posts for the thread "tire patch question"]]></title>
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		<description><![CDATA[Latest messages posted in the thread "tire patch question"]]></description>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Thanks for all of the responses.  The tires had about 9000 miles on them, not the 10,000 to 12,000 miles I wrote in my initial post.  Ended up just getting a new tire Staurday.  The rear tire on the other side still had plenty of tread, so I only replaced the one tire.  <br/> <br/> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, 6 May 2008 12:10:38]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ barky2]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Depending on the amount of wear, I would either replace one or both tires.  If you have sufficient wear to replace both, put the new ones on the rear and rotate the rears to the front.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, 6 May 2008 11:06:30]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Craig58]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I worked at a truck stop in the midwest (in nowheresville, ohio) and you should've seen some of the stuff we saw coming off the road . . . how there aren't more accidents due to worn-out parts, neglect, skipped maintainence  . . .  it's really beyond my comprehension.  Tire plug or patch?  Depends on the car, the use, the driver, the placement of the hole . . .  the tread left on the tire . . . and how much the customer wants to spend.  Rocketman]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, 6 May 2008 16:10:55]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ rocketman]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ The 18 wheeler next to you at 75 miles per hour likely has sidewall repairs on some of the tires. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, 6 May 2008 10:59:57]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Rod Knox]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I have done so many repatch jobs because of the "gummy rope'" patch junk it is not funny. <br/> Take it to two shops and if you get the same answer than yes you need a new tire. <br/> Take it to Sears Auto Center they have a pretty good rules on tire patching and take it to real honest tire shop. Also ask what there "rukes' are on go or no go. <br/> See if they use the speed rated patch.<br/> Play fifty qestion with them.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, 6 May 2008 09:01:23]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Spooktech]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Personally, I'd replace the tire even if only for peace of mind.<br/> <br/> You have to keep in mind that the only contact with the road is that very small patch of rubber.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 3 May 2008 13:46:07]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Roadrunner]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I thought I would offer this link to a Tire Industry Association article:  <a href="http://www.retread.org/PDF/BasicNail.pdf" target="_blank" >http://www...icNail.pdf</a><br/> <br/> It says that one risk of plugging a punctured tire and not going through a recommended vulcanization process is that water may infiltrate around the wound.  The steel belts are not stainless steel.  Water would cause them to rust away and possibly lead to tread separation.<br/> <br/> Regarding matching tires and using the OEM-installed brand, tires need to match each other and match the dimensions of the rims (including height and width), and they really ought to match the car maker's performance specification, but they do not need to match brand.  Automakers specify tires based on traction, ride, noise, stability, speed rating, temperature rating, tread longevity, and whatever else they think might be important based on the intended use of the vehicle, and desired fuel economy performance (rolling resistance can affect that performance).  For basic passenger cars, traction and stability are at the top and you don't want to compromise those.  If you're doing heavy towing or loading up a truck bed, temperature rating is a serious consideration.<br/> <br/> Regarding "serious mismatch," vehicle stability systems rely on information coming from each wheel's speed sensor.  A tire with a circumference 1 inch smaller than all of the others, at 60 mph, will rotate maybe 1.25 to 1.5 percent faster than the other tires.  It doesn't sound like much and maybe your car's stability control logic will adapt long term, or maybe that wheel will always be one nth of a rotation closer to being sensed as wheel slip, which could affect your car's braking and stability control responses.  But the "serious mismatch" is as likely to occur if you put one new tire on a car that actually needs four (i.e., has 50K miles on the other tires).  So pay attention to tire circumference in any case and check your owner's manual recommendations.  I have an older car with all-wheel drive, and the owner's manual for that points out the need to pay attention to matching tire circumference.  I also have a newer all-wheel drive, and that one adapts to wheel circumerence variations without any fuss on my part.  So it varies.<br/> <br/> <br/> But simply switching to another brand, e.g., changing from Pirelli to Continental, for example, to save money or to find a tire with a longer tread warranty, should be quite acceptable on a production car.  If you notice, car makers are required to list your car's tire "specifications" on a label on your driver's door pillar or inside the fuel filler door.  There are online tire resources, like tirerack.com, where you can find really substantive comparisons of tire ratings and performances across all of the brands.  Good places to do this kind of homework.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, 3 May 2008 12:34:06]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ BarryNNJ]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Those kinds of lawsuits make me feel sick to my stomach...for some reason, fraud like that just makes my blood boil.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 1 May 2008 13:47:59]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Jad2007]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ It is not recommended that a tire with a puncture in the sidewall be repaired. It may sound harmless enough but one can bet their bottom dollar if a shop repairs that tire and it later fails leading to a wreck and injury/death that a lawyer will be sicced on the facility who did it PDQ.<br/> With a flexing sidewall it is quite possible for that puncture to become enlarged.<br/> <br/> Shops get sued for far less than that seemingly harmless fix. I worked for a dealer many years ago who allowed a customer to walk out into the shop and get something out of glovebox. The car was going to be in the shop all week waiting for parts.<br/> The dealer actually walked this guy and his wife out to the car. The car was repaired, the guy paid the 500 dollar bill on it, and left happy; or so we thought.<br/> <br/> About 2 months later we get a letter from an attorney in which the guy claims his wife had tripped over an "air hose that had been negligently left strewn over the floor". Imagine that, an air hose in a shop.<br/> Of course the guy's wife never tripped over anything (I know because I was the one working on the car) but it cost my boss a couple of grand to settle this bogus claim. One can imagine what would have happened if it had been legitimate.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 1 May 2008 13:21:52]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ ok4450]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Fix a flat the other evil product of the tire world. <br/> Chrome wheels the one is chrome in side & out. FAF will eat the lived day light out of the rim if left to long in side tire.<br/> Alero came in for a slow leak, we found it at the bead area, two hour of grinding and cleaning it still leak. Due, to the FAF had pitted and eaten the rim bead area up to a point that all the grinding in the world would make perfect seal area. Sorry to say and thousand dollar later he had to a get a new rim. All becase FAF was left in the rim to long.<br/> FAF is spose to heat up in the nail or what ever nail like product area in since seals the hole up so you can get to a tire shop.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, 6 May 2008 09:14:19]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Spooktech]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I've heard recommended that if you plug a tire (in the tread area only), you should back it up with a patch on the inside. Sort of a belt-and-suspenders approach. The major point of a plug is that you can shoot it into the tire from the outside, without dismounting the tire. I'd be wondering what a plug would do to the integrity of a tread belt -- what would happen to the belt in the vicinity of the plug due to the distortion induced (shoving the belt aside)?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, 4 May 2008 17:34:26]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ MrPhil]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I agree Kit. If the plug fails to take due to flexing it will manifest itself as a continued slow leak rather than a blowout. I truely believe its' better to plug it, keep the tires all the same, and keep an eye on it. It the plug does not take, the tire continues to leak, a decision can be made at that time.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 1 May 2008 12:57:24]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ the same mountainbike]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[  Everyone is saying, "New tire! New tire! New tire!" That, of course, is their choice; but, I disagree. For years, I used products like Fix-a-Flat to stop minor leaks, <b>and</b>, I leave the offending nail, or screw, in it (where I can keep an eye on it). Actually, the screw or nail, serves as its own plug. To use the product, let <i>all</i> the air out; then, put in the stop-leak. Check weekly. One caveat, the stop-leak may plug the air valve; then, you couldn't put air into the tire. Use a bicycle tire valve tool to put in another valve core.<br/> <br/>   It depends, to me, on how disposable your funds are.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 1 May 2008 09:46:13]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ hellokit]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Thanks for all of your replies and explanation of why a hole on the edge is bad for the tire.  A little surprising that a tire can be compromised such by a small hole in the edge of the tread, would have expected something like that from a pair of nylons - not a car tire.  My goal was to keep all 4 tires the same, just hoping that a plug would have been sufficient.  If the problem with a plug would just have been the possibility of air continuing to leak then it would be worth trying it and then replacing the tire if needed.  But, if a hole in this area is prone to cause a blowout or tread seperation (which I didn't know) then certainly I would rather replace the tire than have my wife wreck because of it.<br/> <br/> Looking at the price of replacement tires wasn't really a consideration when she was shopping for a new car.  Not sure it would have made a difference though as it was her first new car since she bought her last one 17 years ago, so whatever car she wanted was fine by me.<br/> <br/> Thanks again,<br/> Joe]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 22:06:20]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ barky2]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ <b>Dave G. wrote:</b><i><br/> <blockquote>Ok, the reason I suggested staying with 4 tires all around and not mismatching is because of at-the-limit vehicle dynamics. Let's say you have Brand A on the front wheels and they happen to be very sticky in wet conditions, wheareas Brand B in the rear does very poorly in wet weather. Under normal driving circumstances everything is fine. However when you near the limit of adhesion in either an aggressive avoidance maneuver, or perhaps take an off-ramp a little too fast, it can create spooky handling. Having the rear end of the car swing out suddenly (yes it's unlikely I agree) can be hard for many people to catch. Most modern cars understeer at the limit and thus the nose just pushes when you overcook it, but if you get some glue like tires up front and some rock-like tires on the rear things change. I used to race autocross years ago and a change of a few pounds of pressure would be enough to upset the handling of a car, nevermind when you mix brands. So that was my logic. Didn't want you to think I was just pulling things out of the air here. &nbsp;
		</blockquote></i><br/> <br/> <br/> Ok I can agree with that reasoning, but I also agree it would have to be seriously mismatched tire types to pose the type of problem you described. <br/> <br/> Also, I think you would be able to overcome this issue by buying similarly (or exact) rated tires (e.g. the tires I linked to above have a UTQG rating of 360 AA A, and the OE Michelins have a UTQG of 300 A A...pretty damn close if you ask me, the Sumitomo's have just a slightly better traction rating).<br/> <br/> I also think things like even wear and tire pressure, like you mentioned, are more important. But in any case, point taken.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 1 May 2008 10:58:20]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Jad2007]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Ok, the reason I suggested staying with 4 tires all around and not mismatching is because of at-the-limit vehicle dynamics. Let's say you have Brand A on the front wheels and they happen to be very sticky in wet conditions, wheareas Brand B in the rear does very poorly in wet weather. Under normal driving circumstances everything is fine. However when you near the limit of adhesion in either an aggressive avoidance maneuver, or perhaps take an off-ramp a little too fast, it can create spooky handling. Having the rear end of the car swing out suddenly (yes it's unlikely I agree) can be hard for many people to catch. Most modern cars understeer at the limit and thus the nose just pushes when you overcook it, but if you get some glue like tires up front and some rock-like tires on the rear things change. I used to race autocross years ago and a change of a few pounds of pressure would be enough to upset the handling of a car, nevermind when you mix brands. So that was my logic. Didn't want you to think I was just pulling things out of the air here. <br/> <br/> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 1 May 2008 00:34:09]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Dave G.]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Not to mismatch tires. I agree on the same axle it's best to stay with the same brand/tread pattern, but 2 identical tires on the front, and 2 other identical tires on the front....I don't see the problem there. Is it the optimum situation? No, but I don't think I'll consider it unsafe unless some testing has been done to prove it.<br/> <br/> What I <i>would</i> consider unsafe is putting a brand new tire on a car with 3 worn tires...to me that creates more of a unbalance in the dynamics of the vehicle and I'd rather replace both tires on that axle.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 22:19:03]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Jad2007]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Which claim specifically?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 22:09:59]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Dave G.]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Do you have any studies/reports to support those claims?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 21:39:30]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Jad2007]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ After seeing some of the replies I felt the need to post again on this one. Folks, do not suggest that people mismatch tires. There's a lot more going on than speed rating and size. Different brands and models wear differently, handle differently in the snow, have different noise levels, etc. The tires that came on this car are quite good, as are most Michelin tires. Cheap tires are almost always that-they do fine the first 10k miles and then suddenly they start to get noisier, they start to feel less balanced, the traction isn't as great as it once was, etc. <br/> <br/> In the realm of things $200 on a $25,000+ car isnt really a big deal and you'll have peace of mind knowing everything is safe. Replace the suspect tire with the correct unit and sleep well. ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 17:13:53]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Dave G.]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I'd plug it and keep an eye on the air pressure until the next tire change. If the plug fails it won't do so catastrophically. It'll simply develop another slow leak. If you're keeping watch, you'll be able to reaplce it at that time.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 17:01:27]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ the same mountainbike]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ id replace just the 1 tyre with a new cheap make one,you dont have to buy a michelin!so long as the size and speed rating are the same it would be less than half the price.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 16:31:57]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ stephennunnerley]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Well, if it was my car or my wife's, I'd order 2 of these $75 tires (link below) and be done with it. No way I'm paying $200 for a single tire on a friggin' Honda Accord. And as soon as I could, replace the other 2 tires with the same.<br/> <br/> <a  target='_new' > <a href="http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Sumitomo&tireModel=HTR%2B&vehicleSearch=true&partnum=15WR7HTRPL&fromCompare1=yes&place=0&speed_rating=H&speed_rating=V&speed_rating=Z&speed_rating=W&speed_rating=Y&speed_rating=(Y" target="_blank" >http://www..._rating=(Y</a>)&minSpeedRating=H </a><br/> <br/> Also, I don't think barky is saying anywhere in his post that his wife's safety isn't worth $200. There are many ways to make something safe, throwing the largest amount of money at the problem is not the only (or best) way to show your love for someone.<br/> <br/> Besides, unless the other 3 tires have near-new tread on them, throwing one brand new tire in the mix isn't something I'd consider safe or want to do. Put a couple of decent, fairly priced tires on that axle and move on with life.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 16:27:11]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Jad2007]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ <br/> Cappy--Road Hazard Warranties have gone the way of the Dodo bird--unless someone pays extra for that coverage.  (The only exception that I know of being Costco, which provides it free-of-charge on all tires purchased from them).  <br/> <br/> I seriously doubt that the OP's tire dealer will allow the OP to purchase a Road Hazard Warranty <u>after</u> the tire has been damaged, and I also doubt that they would give him any Road Hazard Warranty coverage for no charge.  <br/> <br/> Personally, I agree with willey.   If your wife's safety is not worth $200.00, then it is probably time to re-evaluate the marriage.<br/> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 16:02:58]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ VDCdriver]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ hey barky:<br/> <br/> at only 12K miles this tire still has a warranty left on it.  look through the brochure you got about tires.  i would bet if you took it to the dealership and sweet talked them they would do some kind of road hazard deal for you to at least cover some of the cost.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:53:05]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ cappy208]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I had exactly the same thing happen to me on my 2006 Chevrolet Uplander.  The tire store, IMHO, is correct.  My problem occured the evening before I was going out on the road, so I replaced the tire at the closest tire store the next morning so I could be on my way.  Since I frequently am on the road with people and/or musical instruments, safety is one of my concerns. I also don't like a plug patch.  When I get some time, I'll replace the tire on the opposite side, buy another wheel and use the tire I take off as a spare.  I think that the little spare might have enough load capacity for my wheelbarrow.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078460</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078460</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:28:03]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Triedaq]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Nice!  Still, I am glad I only have to pay $60 each for new tires.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1082036</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1082036</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 1 May 2008 11:10:02]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Ron-man]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ $200 for OEM tire that matches others. My wife's car has $210/tire for OEM ones. I purchased better aftermarket tires with same speed Z-rating and significantly better handling for $140/each.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078640</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078640</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 16:54:55]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ andrew_j]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ $200 for a tire?  I am guessing you didn't look into the cost of replacement tires before you bought the car.<br/> <br/> I know that isn't really that helpful, but maybe it should be a lesson to the rest of us to research the cost of replacement tires before buying a new car.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078444</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078444</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:02:10]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Ron-man]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I don't have any issue with repairing a tire with a patch or a plug, it's the location of the repair. In the center of the tread a patch or plug will do fine. <br/> <br/> When it comes to repairing a hole on the shoulder of the tire that's when you are asking for trouble. A patch or plug will not hold in this area because of the flexing of the sidewall. <br/> <br/> I worked for a Goodyear tire outlet for 16 years and every tire I saw that had a plug or patch on the shoulder would be leaking. Our policy was never to repair a tire with a hole on the shoulder or sidewall. In fact we never used plugs, that was also against company policy. ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1081619</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1081619</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, 1 May 2008 08:38:24]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ willey]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ willey and CapriRacer are dead right. Sure, you could fix a tire like the one in question and it might hold up 95 times out of 100, then hypothetically the person who had the tire fixed- if he was one of the 95- could say, "Hell, these tire maker's guidlines are crap- my tire held up fine." But if you were one of the 5%- on a sweeping curve on the interstate at 70, a big rig on either side of you...   ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1080020</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1080020</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 22:09:45]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ karl sieger]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ The official position of the Rubber Manufacturers Association - the folks who represent the tire industry as a group and publish recommendations that all the tire manufacturers agree with - is that a radial tire should only be repaired in the tread area EXCLUDING the outermost rib. The reason for this is that the outermost rib is where the edges of the belts are and that is the most highly stressed area of the tire.  Damage in that area is prone to cause a tread separation.  The sidewall is excluded because this area flexes in a very peculiar way and repairs do not hold up. ]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078628</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078628</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 16:35:12]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ CapriRacer]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Your wife's safety isn't worth $200? You would allow her to drive on a tire with a questionable repair? How will you feel if the tire fails after that questionable repair and your wife is injured or killed? What if the tire fails and it causes an accident that injures or kills someone else? <br/> <br/> A tire should not be patched if the hole is close to the shoulder(within a 1/4 of an inch)or on the sidewall.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078442</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078442</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:53:49]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ willey]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I've had a lot of plugs put in.  Usually get it done at a small service station that's not trying to sell me a new tire.<br/> <br/> I've never had much of a problem with using plugs.  I know they tire guys don't like them, and hardly won't do it, but going to and from job sites, I'd go broke buying tires for every screw that stuck one.  <br/> <br/> SKip]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:21:54]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Skipper]]></author>
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				<title>Re: Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ You're correct on both counts:  EX model with Michelins and no full size spare.  I wouldn't hesitate as much to get a new tire if it wasn't so expensive.]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078231</guid>
				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078231</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 13:36:43]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ barky2]]></author>
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				<title>Re: tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ Yeah, you're not suppossed to patch a tire when it's on or close to a sidewall. Though without seeing it it's hard to say how borderline it is. $200 for a tire ouch..You must have the EX model with a Michelin tire. I don't suppose you have a full-size spare in the trunck do you?]]></description>
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				<link>http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/1016611.page#1078227</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 13:32:24]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ Dave G.]]></author>
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				<title>tire patch question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ My wife has a 2007 Honda Accord with probably between 10,000 and 12,000 miles on it.  One of her tires picked up a screw which is causing a slow air leak.  The screw is right at the edge of the tread, although it might angle in some toward the center of the tire.  Tire shop says that it can't be patched since it's too close to the sidewall, something like they need .25 inches for an effective patch.  In the past I've used plugs from the auto part store to patch tires and have never had a problem, although some things I read suggest that a plug is only a temporary solution and the tire should be patched right away.  Do I really need to spend the $200 on a new tire or would a plug do the job?  If it was my car I wouldn't worry about it and just plug it, but since it's my wife's car I don't want to possibly cause her to break down anywhere.<br/> Thanks,<br/> Joe]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, 30 Apr 2008 13:21:57]]> GMT</pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[ barky2]]></author>
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