http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/12203.page Public Action 1. Steep hill
2. Very slippery conditions
3. Very slow speed (i.e. creeping)
Under no other conditions should it be used.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#1042624 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#1042624 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#1003226 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#1003226 GMT
2. When going down a VERY slippery, steep hill the car should be in neutral. Those that don't live in places with very steep hills and a severe winter climate like Ithaca, New York, can't imagine how much better traction you get in neutral. With the car in gear, the idle speed is pushing the car forward while you are trying to restrain the car to 2 or 3 miles per hour. This causes the car to skid. If you try it once, you will quickly realize how much more control you have by putting the car in neutral in this very special situation.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#1000440 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#1000440 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#972058 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#972058 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#971817 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#971817 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#971818 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#971818 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#965058 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#965058 GMT ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#971812 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#971812 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#936018 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#936018 GMT Salvage an empty half-gallon container from your trash. Rinse it out thouroughly, so it's nice and clean, then keep it in your car. Then, when you go out to your car to find the windshield is all icy, just fill up the container at the nearest source of hot water. Hot tap water works of course - so does the hot water spigot on commercial coffee-makers. Dump it all over the windshield, being careful to dump some on the wiper blades and the washer spigots. The hot water will quickly melt ice buildup and usually evaporates rapidly. If you can, immediately run your wipers once or twice to dry off the windshield as much as possible. You should now have a nice clean windshield with actual working washers/wipers for your drive!
P.S. Good containers are the cardboard ones that juice comes in, or even the plastic jugs that washer fluid comes in. ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#935822 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#935822 GMT
2. ANTICIPATE, DON'T REACT: When driving in the snow, you need to be thinking about where the car will be in 15 seconds or more, and start altering driving accordingly. The obvious one is momentum for uphills; another is to be aware that the crown on the road means left turns will usually be dicier than rights. Also, since you'll be slowing for turns far in advance of normal, you need to signal in advance, too. Also, always have an "out" if things go bad, even to the point of stating it out loud.

3. USE NEUTRAL BELOW 7MPH: Once the speedometer is "pegged" low, your AT is pulling you forward, not braking. Thus, neutral will help get you completely stopped.

4. USE OPTIMAL BRAKING TECHNIQUES: For non-ABS, I've had the best luck with increasing pressure to the point of lock, then backing off until wheels resume rolling (because of the differences between static and dynamic coefficients of fricion, this will be substantially less braking than the point at which skidding commenced), then smoothly re-apply until skid. For ABS, I know airplane ABS procedures are to go for pressure causing ABS to cycle at about 4Hz vs. trying to push the pedals through the floor, but I don't have enough experience to know if this is applicable to automobiles, as well.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#923021 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#923021 GMT
"Our advice. Consider an all-wheel-drive vehicle if you live in a snowy area or want added peace of mind. For maximum traction, equip it with winter tires. In less-snowy areas, front-wheel drive and a set of winter tires should suffice. Mount winter tires on all four wheels for balanced handling. Remove them after winter, since these tires wear quickly on dry roads (plan on about three winters of use). And be sure to opt for ABS on any vehicle."
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Given two SAME make sedans with the same winter tires, traveling at the same speed in the same conditions, the AWD is ALWAYS superior in traction and control. Anyone that disagrees in all likelyhood never owned one. The problem is that, awd and 4 wd bring out the worse in many with excessive speed and imprudent decisions. You can make the same mistakes in winter with AWD you can in summer with a Corvette; so, know your car and your own capabilities.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#922489 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#922489 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#908421 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#908421 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#906691 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#906691 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#906690 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#906690 GMT ]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#905822 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#905822 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#905042 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#905042 GMT
have you noticed that drivers are driving faster and more aggressively in recent years?]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#904611 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#904611 GMT How about if we add NOT tailgating?

As bad as tailgating is when the road is dry, those who tailgate when it is snowing or hailing are truly dimwits. And, unfortunately, there seem to be more dimwits nowadays than ever before.

In particular, I find that women seem to be unable to comprehend that following 6 feet behind another car during a snow storm is dangerous.

Yes, honey, even if you are driving a BMW, it is still dangerous.


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Drive slow, 4 good winter tires, stay home if you can, be alert, no cruise control, bring shovel, salt, blanket, cell phone (turned off), shovel the snow off the car.
]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#904231 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#904231 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#909018 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#909018 GMT
1. The current term is "Winter" tyres. They are new technology and they are using the new name. Better than the old snow tyres.
2. I would emphasize the importance of stopping and staying on the road vs being able to go far more. 4WD will help get you out of the ditch but 4WD or AWD will NOT help you stay out of the ditch. Winter tyres will do both.
3. Best addition is a cell phone to call for assistance on the highway. I would suggest it is almost necessary, and I hate seeing drivers distracted using one whey they are driving. I do keep one in the car turned off.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#904221 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#904221 GMT Clear ALL of the snow from the roof, hood, trunk, and the area of the tail lights before driving. Don't be one of the idiots who clears a one square foot area on the windshield and the rear window, and don't be one of the imbeciles who drives with the tail lights obscured by snow.]]> http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#904047 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#904047 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#904037 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#904037 GMT http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#903015 http://action.publicbroadcasting.net/cartalk/posts/list/823009.page#903015 GMT
We hope folks find our Car Talk winter driving tips useful.

We're always interested to hear other ideas. We'd like to like to know your suggestions for winter driving, too! You can share them right here.

Yours in avoiding breaking down on the side of a lonely highway in January -- and then passing through the digestive systems of wolves,


Tom and Ray
Click and Clack the Tappet Brothers
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